A Neapolitan journal

Thursday: Afternoon landing in Naples—a city with a prominent position on my bucket list because, what else, Pompéi (and pizza!) The taxi driver from the airport had us in stitches as, intent on having a conversation, he gesticulated so much his hands hardly touched the wheel! Twice he nearly went off into a side road, only to veer wildly at the last possible minute.

Our hotel on the waterfront had a view on the port, dominated by the majestic sight of the volcano. A busy port, with huge cruise ships moored next to ferries going to Sicily.

The afternoon was spent walking around the Piazza di Plebiscito in the historic center, bordered on one side by the huge, neo-classical Palazzo Réale and on the other by the Church of San Francesco di Paola, with its twin colonnades on either side.

Dinner in a traditional trattoria, where the owner’s husband and a friend regaled us with guitar playing and songs. Great food.

Friday: we treated ourselves to a guide, a great idea since Maria Luisa was enthusiastic and eloquent and answered all questions brilliantly. Pompéi was all I had expected—no, much more. I had not been prepared for the sheer size, the brilliant city planning, the length of the streets.

Stepping stones were laid down so that people could cross the streets when they were flooded without getting wet. They also had ‘cat’s eyes’ of white marble in certain places so they would shine by torch light and people would not lose their way in the dark. Naples was a city of rich merchants and the villas reflect their wealth and status.

The villas had courtyards and also, second floors which do not exist anymore—just the steps leading up to them.

How many artists must have lived in this city, for houses to be decorated in such a manner? Breathtaking frescoes everywhere.

The Bathhouse, below, with its original roof intact. It was a proper spa, with baths of different temperatures, fountains and a changing room.

Of course there was a theatre, a stadium and a forum.

Afternoon walk around town, where narrow, crowded streets often lead you to an elegant piazza.

The city is noisy and dirty but vibrant and buzzing with life. Walking in one of the crowded streets a few drops of rain started falling and immediately people materialised out of nowhere, selling umbrellas!

Saturday: We drove up the Vomero hill to the Certosa di San Marino, a former monastery which is now a museum. There was a stunning view over the city, with its ochre and yellow and terracotta colours.

Although the artefacts in the museum were interesting, the biggest attraction was the great cloister, with its wonderful mature camellia trees in bloom. A magical place, where we had the supreme luck of being alone for some minutes.

In the afternoon we visited Naples Underground: under the lively historic center there is an extensive network of streets and squares that partly was built by the Romans and Greeks and carved out of the tuff. It is a labyrinth of passages, water tanks and tunnels, almost a replica of the city above. These were used by people taking refuge from earthquakes and the war. After the second war people lived down there for years, since the city above had been destroyed by bombs and they were homeless.

We emerged to walk about the streets again. And I must not forget to mention the memorable meals. Pizza, of course, since Naples is its birthplace, but also delicious pasta and fish and greens of every kind.

Sunday: Before catching our flight we tried to visit the Museum of Capodimonte, but sadly it proved impossible since, on the first Sunday of every month museums are free and there was a huge line. However, the museum has a lovely park with a café in which we enjoyed a coffee in the sunshine. It was also the last week of Carnival, so the waterfront was closed to traffic and teeming with people out with their families, children dressed up in multicoloured costumes.

All in all, a memorable few days.