John Singer Sargent: Art & Fashion

On a lightning trip to London, I managed to squeeze in a visit to the stunning Sargent exhibition at Tate Britain.

Sybil Sasoon, the Countess of Rocksavage, 1913

John Singer Sargent (1856 – 1925) was considered the most important portrait painter of his generation. His speciality was making evocative paintings of Edwardian society, depicting beauty, wealth and luxury. He created roughly 900 oil paintings and more than 2,000 watercolors, as well as countless sketches and charcoal drawings, travelling worldwide to Europe, America and the Middle East.

He was born in Florence to American expatriate parents, and trained in Paris before later moving to London, living most of his life in Europe.

Sargent was a very demanding portraitist, almost a bully with his sitters. Believing their attire was an important part of the composition, he chose and then manipulated their clothing until he achieved the desired effect.

Lady Helen Vincent, Viscountess d’Abernon, 1904

Sitting for one’s portrait is in any case a disquieting activity—the self-consciousness at being stared at in such detail, exposing all one’s flaws, the discomfort of retaining the pose for an extended period of time, the boredom, and the possible dissatisfaction with the result. And that is without mentioning the cost: at the height of his fame Sargent charged $4000 for a full length portrait, compared to $400 for an average artist (from an invoice he sent to the Harvard Club of New York in 1896) —or a whopping 150k in today’s money. Sargent was sought after for his ability to produce a flattering likeness in most cases, but that did not make it any easier, either for the sitter or for him. He often said he hated painting portraits.

Miss Elsie Palmer, or A Lady in White, 1889-1890

Sargent seldom let his sitters choose their own dresses—and often he added chiffon scarves, shawls, wraps or simply pieces of material and pinned the dresses up or wrapped them around the body to achieve the desired effect. One of his subjects remembers being pricked by the pins he stuck in the fabric to make it stay in place.

Mrs Edward L. Davis and her son, Livingston, 1890

Looking at the paintings, I was struck by how uncomfortable some of the poses looked, whereas others were a lot more relaxed and natural.

In some cases there was a photograph of the subject next to the painting, which showed that Sargent was wonderful at capturing a likeness, although often flattering and prettifying, whether the face, making look younger and smoother, or the body, which he often elongated to render it more elegant.

He was a master at painting fabrics. Notice the difference between satin, in the portrait of Mrs Harrison, below, and her strange cape…

Mrs Robert Harrison, 1886

…and the silk velvet of the cherry red gown trimmed with gold lace, worn by his friend Mary Hammersley.

Mrs Hugh Hammersley, 1892

Sargent was a master at painting black fabric, which is not only apparent in the frock coats of his male models, but he often induced females to wear it, too.

Jane Evans, 1898

Jane Evans, who ran a boarding house at Eton College, was said to be ‘able to see through a boy as if he were a pane of glass’, and one can picture them quaking before her—the portrait fully conveys her authority and the power of her personality.

Interesting little picture of a staged scene between two writers: Robert Louis Stevenson and his wife Frances Osbourne. She had worn a South Asian dress to show Sargent, in he insisted on painting her slumped in it in a corner of the sofa.

Sargent made Graham Robertson, below, wear a long Chesterfield coat in the heat of summer, despite his objections, because ‘the coat is the picture…’ Robertson was an artist, writer, collector and friend of Oscar Wilde. Please note the cane and be-ribboned poodle at his feet.

W. Graham Robertson, 1894

Sargent depicted a world of wealth and leisure enjoyed not only by the aristocracy but, increasingly, by a new cosmopolitan elite. His compositions included fashion as well as furnishings and props.

The Gilded Age and the Belle Epoque (1870-1914) saw the birth of Haute Couture. The exhibition featured dresses from that era, such as the one below made by the House of Worth, one of the leading couturiers of the era.

Pearl-embroidered bengaline

Absolutely beautiful and very expensive—dresses like this could cost up to £25.000 in today’s money—but personally I would not like to wear something like that. How could one possibly sit in this, or even breathe? Look at the tiny waist, strangled by stays, and the huge bustle at the back.

But I digress. The wonderful portrait below, of the Chilean beauty Madame Ramòn Subercaseaux was widely admired and brought more custom to the young artist.

Mme Ramòn Subercaeaux, 1880-1881

There might not have been social media at the time, but there was a closed society ready to critique everything people wore.

In an age when there were no photographs to look at, people even consulted portraits at exhibitions on matters of taste in dress.

To be painted in a couture dress, in a portrait singled out at a prestigious exhibition venue such as the Royal Academy or the Paris Salon, could help gain or assert a woman’s social status.

Of course this facility at painting beautiful dresses enabled his critics to assert Sargent was not a serious artist but just a clever painter of fashion, what art critic Walter Sickert called ‘ the chiffon and wriggle school of portraiture.’

Sir Philip Sasoon, 1923. Although Sasson was known for his flamboyant taste, Sargent painted him in very formal attire.

However, when painting men he usually confined himself to a darker and more conventional palette, depending on his sitter’s character and position in life.

President Woodrow Wilson, 1917

But not always. He painted the notorious womaniser, surgeon Dr Pozzi en desabillé, in a sumptuous red dressing gown and Turkish slippers, as if standing in front of a stage curtain.

Dr. Pozzi at home, 1881

Dr.Pozzi was said to be ‘disgustingly handsome’ and had many scandalous affairs including, famously, with Sarah Bernhartd. Despite this, he was a brilliant avant-garde gynecologist, who made women’s lives better. Sadly, he was murdered in his own consulting room by a disgruntled (male) patient.

Albert de Belleroche, a very close friend of Sargent

It is interesting, and proof that Sargent made his sitters expressive, that as I wandered through the exhibition with a friend we commented on whether we ‘liked’ or ‘disliked’ the sitters, making totally subjective comments on their character, such as ‘she looks nice’, ‘he looks very full of himself,’ etc. Most amusing and, judging by overheard comments, most visitors were doing the same. By observing the portraits closely one can perceive many hints as to the sitter’s character, mood, or even sexuality.

However, what today is almost universally admired, at the time drew more than its fair share of criticism. Sometimes the finished portrait was met by a disapproving silence by the sitter and his of her family. Sometimes portraits even caused a scandal, such as the famous one of Mrs Gatreau, a study of which see below.

Madame X (her missing strap was painted in on the finished portrait)

Besides the paintings of nobility, ‘Dollar Princesses’—as wealthy American heiresses coming to England to bag a title were called—and politicians, Sargent made lovely sketches of his friends, like the quick study below, which was finished in one hour.

Vernon Lee, 1881.

And this wonderful painting of girls wearing Indian shawls (his beloved niece posed for most of the figures).

This post gives but a glimpse into Sargent’s long and diverse career. A fascinating man and fascinating work.

The art of digesting rejection

As all creatives find out, sooner rather than later, rejection is part of the fabric of life. Of course, that is true for everyone sometimes: rejection of an invitation to dinner, a proposal of marriage, a coveted job. But in the arts, rejections drop upon one, not as a gentle rain, but more like a fist to the gut.

Having completed a mystery novel for which I am ‘seeking representation’, i.e. for a literary agent to take me on, in former times I could have papered a room with rejection slips. These days, they would have clogged up my iCloud storage if I hadn’t erased them, while keeping note on an Excel sheet so that I do not apply to the same agency or publisher twice.

Of course, one has to feel for the agents. They only get paid if they can sell your book, so even if they love it, they cannot take you on unless they can. And that depends on a lot of factors: their contacts in the publishing world, the market at that particular moment, the zeitgeist, etc, etc. Also, the slush pile has become unmanageable since the advent of ‘copy-paste.’ People used to write in longhand, then on a typewriter, keeping copies using carbon paper, making corrections with Typex and having to rewrite whole passages. Now corrections and alterations to the text take seconds. A lot more people are finishing their novels as a result.

Many more are self-publishing. Too many. It is easy to take the plunge before your work is ‘as good as it could be’. The thought did cross my mind, of course—but I am happy I did not go down that route at once, because I have received valuable feedback from a couple of lovely agents, which has improved the book no end. I would have ‘pushed the button’ too soon—before the book was polished enough.

Also what is stopping me is that if you self-publish, you’ve got to sell the book yourself—and there is nothing that appeals to me less. I’d rather be writing, painting, cooking or even mucking out stables than doing blog tours or begging people to buy my masterpiece. Or, horrors, making videos on Tik Tok (which is how many books find readers nowadays). However, I might not have the choice in the end, if I want to see said masterpiece in print, so perhaps I shall bite the bullet one of these days, and see what happens…

Also, indie authors get the most of the (potential) profits themselves, instead of giving half to the agency. However, they first need to shell out for edits, a professional cover design, formatting etc.

Meanwhile, what annoys me more than a rejection is being ghosted. Some agents promise to reply but never do so, others warn you that no answer after a specified amount of time means it’s a pass. Fine—athough how hard would it be to have a polite rejection form ready and just add the name? An agent complained recently on X that some people reply rudely if they get a rejection, so now she does not bother to answer—but surely that is but a part of the job? A rejection, though painful, is some kind of closure; it allows you to move on from that particular slot.

But what gets my goat most is when your writing is praised and you get asked for the whole manuscript, which you send off with all fingers and toes crossed, and a glimmer of hope (or anticipation). Then, nothing. That is just plain bad manners. That is why I am so grateful to the lovely agents who spent time offering detailed advice.

As with everything else, writing takes grit. Rewrite, revise, edit, kill your darlings, read widely, try new things. I have had some short stories published, and that gives me courage that my writing is not hopeless. Onwards.

And I take heart from reading famous rejections, of writers I could never try to emulate. I bet those agents or publishers had a few regrets (such as the one who rejected the Harry Potter books…) Here are some good ones:

“You’d have a decent book if you’d get rid of that Gatsby Character.” – to F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby

 “Stick to teaching.” – to Louisa May Alcott, Little Women

“We are not interested in science fiction which deals with negative utopias. They do not sell.” -to Stephen King, Carrie

“I rack my brains why a chap should need thirty pages to describe how he turns over in bed before going to sleep.” – to Marcel Proust, Remembrance of Things Past

“I haven’t the foggiest idea about what the man is trying to say. Apparently the author intends it to be funny.” – about Joseph Heller, Catch-22

And the best of them all:

“Our united opinion is entirely against the book. It is very long, and rather old-fashioned… First, we must ask, does it have to be a whale? While this is a rather delightful, if somewhat esoteric, plot device, we recommend an antagonist with a more popular visage among the younger readers. For instance, could not the Captain be struggling with a depravity towards young, perhaps voluptuous, maidens?” – to Hermann Melville, Moby Dick

Priceless.

Art Website Reveal

Some time ago I subscribed to a site called Artwork Archive, one of a several available tools for managing artwork.

At first I just entered my drawings and paintings indiscriminately, using hastily made photographs, in order to keep track of the work I had, what had been given to people as gifts, and what had been sold. I never took the time or the trouble to use the multiple features offered, such as adding up expenses, generating invoices, or setting up a public profile.

The work can be organised as a portfolio, in the order of one’s choice, or sorted into collections

Then when I started entering art for online exhibitions or competitions, I kept getting asked for my website address, so I decided I now needed my own art website. After wasting numerous hours trying to choose between Word, Winx and Squarespace, and more hours attempting to navigate their sites, I belatedly realised the Artwork Archive Public Profile would do the job more than adequately.

It would save me from paying for another site, plus their client support is excellent.

Here is a random page showing the tools offered, and how the work looks in the portfolio mode

So if I have not posted anything here for a while, it is because I’ve been working on taking better photos, deciding which pieces to put on the public platform, and entering any relevant information. All this takes an inordinate amount of time…

Viewed as a portfolio

But here it is! Although it is still a work in progress, and will continue to be one as I make new work and improve my presentation and other parameters, I am now proud to reveal it to you.

Viewed as Collections

If you are interested in actually going on-site, here is a link.

Suggestions welcome!

https://www.artworkarchive.com/profile/marina-marinopoulos

Life? Or Theatre?

Can one have a horrible life, punctuated by difficulties and tragedies and ending in extermination at Auschwitz, yet leave behind work that, despite its disturbing themes, is poignant, breathtaking and uplifting in its luminosity and colour?

This is the case of Charlotte Salomon, the only Jewish artist who died in the Holocaust to leave behind such a large body of work. It consists of 769 works painted between 1941 and 1943—a mere two years—while she was hiding from the Nazis in the South of France. In October of that year, 5-months-pregnant Salomon was captured and deported to Auschwitz where she was immediately killed.

Born to a prosperous and well-assimilated Jewish family in Berlin, Charlotte was 16 when the Nazis came to power. By 1938 it became too dangerous for her to continue her studies, so she left the art school she was attending, and after Kristallnacht she was sent to live with her grandparents in Nice; her father had been interned and, when her stepmother succeeded in freeing him, they left for Amsterdam. Her mother, suffering from depression, had committed suicide when she was eight.

After several attempts, her grandmother also succeeded in killing herself and Charlotte remained with her grandfather, who it appears was abusive. To escape him, she went to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat where—in order to recover her mental sanity—she started painting; stating that she was driven by the question, “whether to take her own life or undertake something wildly unusual”.

Painting obsessively, in less than two years she produced more than 1.300 gouaches, amongst which she chose the 769 which she numbered and edited, adding text, captions and transparent overlays, to make a kind of autobiography outlining the main events of her life—speaking of herself in the third person, altering all the names and adding elements of imagination.

In 1942 she was obliged, due to her residence permit, to join her grandfather in Nice. Shockingly, shortly after, she poisoned him with a Veronal omelette, then drew him as he lay dead (the drawing exists). She made a 35-page confession which she sent to a former lover who, however, never received it; it remained a secret until much later.

In 1943, as the Nazis closed in, she packed up her paintings and gave them to a local doctor with instructions to forward them to Otillie Moore, a wealthy American who was her protector and sponsor. At war’s end, the package found its way to her remaining family.

In 1943, Charlotte had married Alaxander Nagler, another German Jew refugee, with whom she had been confined in Otillie Moore’s house for a while. Soon after their marriage, they were both deported and murdered.

I find it beyond me to talk about her work, which is based on film-making techniques and is extremely layered and complex; and one must also follow the narrative, in its dream-like dimension. It is, in some ways, a precursor to the graphic novel as we know it today. Although Salomon has always been classed as a Holocaust artist, her work—save for very few drawings—is not about the Holocaust: it is about her childhood, her very disfunctional family, her life and her loves. In the final pages of her book, two sentences stand out. She writes, ‘And with dream-awakened eyes she saw all the beauty around her, saw the sea, felt the sun, and knew; she had to vanish for a while from the human plane and make every sacrifice in order to create her world anew out of the depths.’

I have seen her paintings live in a couple of exhibitions, and they are simply wonderful. I have a book published by the Royal Academy of Arts, with colour reproductions, which I highly recommend.

More information:

Charlotte is a biography by David Foekinos, which I have not read yet, but which has excellent reviews. This is the Amazon link to the English version (the original is French).

https://amzn.eu/d/gqzWlAf

Also there is a very interesting article in the New Yorker with more information than I have given on both her life and her work, and great images. Link below:

https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/the-obsessive-art-and-great-confession-of-charlotte-salomon

Best Wishes for 2024

The dawn of a new year: who knows what it will bring. Is there a glimmer of light on the horizon? Let us be optimistic, although things are pretty grim at the moment. I skim over the headlines each day, trying to avoid the worst of the news.

We all wish for world peace, at least those of us who are not dictators or involved in the arms industry. Meanwhile, let us take comfort in the good things in life, if we can manage it: art and books and nature, family and friends. And let us hope for good health.

Let us think of those who have none of the above, and lend a helping hand when we can. Let us hope for that glimmer of light on the horizon.

And for those who like to celebrate, here is a painting by Toulouse Lautrec, who was a master at depicting people enjoying themselves!

Happy New Year, everyone!

Van Gogh: the last paintings

In the last 70 days of his life, Van Gogh produced 74 paintings and 33 drawings! A huge burst of productivity before he sadly put an end to his life.

The current exhibition at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris is the first devoted to this period in his life, spent at Auvers-sur-Oise, which was the home of Dr Gachet, his friend, mentor and supporter—a man who specialized in the treatment of melancholia but was also a lover and connoisseur of art, friend to the Impressionists and a collector and amateur artist. There he could also be closer to his brother Theo, an art dealer.

From May 20 1890 to July 29th, in a frenzied artistic renewal, he painted one or two canvases per day, mostly “alla prima”, using thick pigment directly on the canvas.

If you look at the detail, you can see bits of bare canvas, as well as the boldness of the strokes and the thikness of the paint

In the drawings, he interestingly mixes oil and aquarelle, and sometimes other media, such as graphite and wash.

Luminous landscapes, portraits and still lifes.

Pure colours, and sheer boldness which delivers a huge emotional impact.

Wonderful cows!

The exhibition is well worth the effort, because although not large, almost every painting is a masterpiece—the artist in full maturity and control of his expression.

The highlight, however, of a very special show, was the room with 11 paintings in the rare ‘double square’ format.

A rainy day
Roots

Autumn mood

In Greece the sea is still warm enough to swim in, but here in Normandy where we mainly live now the weather has turned, despite the steady rain being interrupted by periods of brillian sunshine. At 7.30 am it is still pitch dark; there is a chill in the air that inspires the lighting of a fire in the chimney, although the heating is not on yet.

Beach walks are dramatic

Autumn is a productive time, with a good harvest of apples and pears

The last of the tomatoes

Dahlias still thriving

The leaves have started to turn

More indoor time means more art making

Morning Window. Oil and varnish on book cover

An interior on a hardbook cover primed with gesso (instead of paper or canvas)

I was inspired by the pears to make an oil sketch on another, embossed, book cover.

In my art workshop we have been drawing shoes!

Charcoal on paper
Marker on paper

And a wet and dismal Saturday (it steadily rained all day) drove me to bake a totally unnecessary—but delicious—cake. Of course the apples and pears make lovely crumbles and pies and compote, but I was in the mood for something different. Something I’ve wanted to try for a while. It is Yottam Ottolenghi’s Lemon and Blueberry one-bowl loaf. Only I did not have a loaf tin and the blueberries were frozen, but I don’t think it made a difference.

The trick is to roll the blueberries in flour before putting in the batter—in my case, straight out of the freezer. It was an easy cake and highly recommended.

Summer reading

For anyone who does not already have a huge TBR pile and wants something to read for the rest of the summer—at the beach, or if it is pouring outside—here are a few recommendations from my recent forays into literature.

The Marriage Portrait, by Maggie O’Farrell, tells the story of Lucrezia, daughter of the richest man in Florence, who is married at fifteen to the Duke of Ferrara, whom she suspects of trying to kill her. The details of the period and settings are vividly imagined and portrayed and the suspenseful story only adds to the enjoyment. Based on historical facts.

Perhaps Greek friends, but not only, would enjoy The Clover House, the story of a family set in the city of Patras in Greece during two periods: in 1940 during the war, and in the present day. Complex characters and family secrets.

I am a fan of William Boyd, and The Romantic ticks all the boxes. The saga of Cashel Greville Ross is a fascinating one, and beautifully told. Something to sink into.

For lovers of thrillers, a recommendation from Ian Rankin, who is one of my favourite crime writers. All the Sinners Bleed is a chilling but unputdownable read. Great characters, suspense and endless twists.

The best seller Lessons in Chemistry, by Bonnie Garmus, lives up to its reputation. A fun, quirky story, with original characters, it would be the ideal beach read.

A Winter Chase, by Mary Kingston is for fans of Jane Austen. Set in the Regency era, it is no bodice-ripper, like many of these sort of books nowadays are, featuring bare-chested dukes clutching begowned maidens on the cover. This is an exploration of class and family values.

Fey’s War, by Catherine Bailey, tells a true, incredible story, and it makes for harrowing reading. A WWII tale of a mother whose sons are taken away by the Nazi, and her quest to find them.

For horse lovers, and not only (knowledge of horses is not a prerequisite for enjoyment), Kick the Latch, by Kathryn Scanlan, provides a fascinating view into American racing. Written like a memoir, (it is based on transcribed interviews with Sonia, a horse trainer), in short bites full of humour, it depicts the daily vicissitudes of one woman’s life at the racetrack.

I like everything by Amanda Craig, and her latest, The Three Graces, is set in Tuscany, making for perfect summer reading. An earlier book I had somehow missed, Hearts and Minds does not disappoint. It is a heartwarming and thought-provoking look into the realities in modern Britain. As always, her characters are diverse and likeable and, as usual, some we have met before, in previous books.

And finally, The Means of Escape, a collection of wonderful short stories by the incomparable Penelope Fitzgerald. Something to read again and again.

I did not write a review of each book, because it would make this post interminable, and you can easily find reviews online. My purpose was to try to tempt you. I hope you find something to like.

Yet another inferno

I don’t want to go into details about the fires raging in Greece, since these can be found in all the papers and news streams. They are too awful to contemplate, as are the fires in Canada, California, and elsewhere. Nor do I want to start a discussion of what, or who, is to blame—arson, climate change, negligence… It is too painful.

Ireelevant photo of a soothing Japanese garden

All I want is to spare a thought for the people affected, who have lost holidays, possessions, properties and sometimes their lives. And another for the people fighting those fires, with immeasurable courage. Having witnessed a few myself, I know there are few things more frightening than an out-of-control blaze. Horrible for people on the ground, but perhaps even worse for the pilots, who have to fill up with water from a raging sea (it is strong winds that drive the blazes) and then fly blind through the smoke to dump it on houses and woods.

The gardens of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in the south of France

And finally a thought for nature, which will be depleted for years to come, and might never recover.

I have posted peaceful pictures because we see enough violent ones in the news.

Rosemary

Good post from @agreekmatinee. Greeks use a lot of rosemary in cooking, and always have a bush growing outside the kitchen door in the country. I put sprigs inside whole fish, and in baking trays of potatoes.

agreekmatinee's avatarElizabeth F Woodfield - A Greek Matinee

From my garden I pluck rosemary leaves to add to my steaming hot tea. Now mid June, that is, our Winter, blooms grin, attract ants.

‘Are rosemary blooms edible too?’ I wondered.

Daughter says, ‘Yes you can eat rosemary blooms. You could crystallise and put in sugar for subtle flavouring. Also you could freeze in ice cubes to add to gin!’

Son says, ‘You could also make some kind of hair serum with the rosemary.’

‘I’ll pass on the crystallised rosemary flowers due to sugar. However, in icecubes for gin sounds good. Should practice for travelling Scotland, ha ha haa!’

‘You’ll love some of the craft gin in the UK also the zero alcohol gin. Worth a try.’

My 12 year old granddaughter’s ‘hair serum’ is super simple to make Son says. ‘She simply took fresh rosemary and placed it in a saucepan of water (not too much water), brought…

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