Now that the meat-eating revel of Easter is over, people’s thoughts are turning towards showing up on the beach in a swimsuit. New season tomatoes are making their appearance, so what better than a traditional horiatiki salad, made with tomatoes, cucumber, thinly sliced onions and peppers, and cubes of feta cheese. A bit of olive oil and a sprinkling of oregano, and you’ve got a light, nutritious lunch.
And for something more substantial, many turn to fish.
Fried white bait or little red mullet are delicious, but not particularly slimming – the best is a whole fish, simply grilled and accompanied by olive oil beaten with plenty of aromatic lemon juice.
When fish is fresh, sauces disguise its flavor, so unless you are in some fancy restaurant, you will usually get your fish plain. And yes, cooked with the head on, seeing as the best bits are the cheeks and the nape of the neck. A lot of non-Greeks find this gross, but it’s not as gross as another delicacy, the head of the Easter spit-roasted lamb! (from which I, personally, refrain.)
Having said that Greeks mostly eat their fish without sauce, I discovered that the ancients had invented a concoction called garum, a fermented fish sauce used as a condiment in the cuisines of Ancient Greece, Rome, and Byzantium. It probably originated in Carthage, and Plato was the first to describe its disagreeable ‘rotten’ smell.
The preparation of garum is described in Roman and Byzantine texts. Small fish, left whole with their intestines, were mashed with salt and set to ferment in the sun. The mixture was occasionally stirred with a stick and finally filtered through layers of fine cloth, to make a condiment used to flavor meat and game, as well as fish and seafood.
Archaeological digs have brought to light garum production plants on the coast of North Africa, Portugal and elsewhere on the Mediterranean. These were placed far from inhabited areas because the smell was horrendous! The finished product, however, was supposed to have a pleasant, spicy odor. Garum was also known as liquamen, or hallex, and prices varied according to quality.
Apparently the nearest equivalent we have nowadays is Worcestershire sauce.
How’s that for the irrelevant information of the day?
Celebrated by even the most secular of Greeks, Easter is for us the biggest holiday of the year. Yes, even bigger than Christmas. Everyone joins in the church rituals and there are lots of other traditions as well. To top it all, this year Greek Easter falls on the first of May, which is, in itself, another popular holiday.
I thought I’d begin by explaining why Easter is a ‘mobile’ holiday: the determination of the date of Easter is governed by a computation based on the vernal equinox (the point at which the ecliptic and the celestial equators intersect) and the phase of the moon. According to the ruling of the First Ecumenical Synod in 325, Easter should fall on the Sunday which follows the first full moon after the vernal equinox (invariably, March 21). If the full moon happens to fall on a Sunday, Easter is observed the following Sunday.
These complicated calculations do not always end up with the same Easter Sunday for all Christian churches, for the simple reason the churches use different calendars: Greek Orthodox use the Julian Calendar and western churches the Gregorian.
Easter preparations begin on Holy Thursday when the traditional Easter bread, τσουρέκι (tsoureki), is baked. Tsoureki is like a brioche or challah bread in the shape of a plait and is eaten all year round. Some people also bake Πασχαλινά κουλουράκια (pashalina koulourakia – Easter cookies). Eggs are dyed red, to symbolize the color of life and the blood of Christ) and sometimes they are incorporated for decoration in the tsoureki. In the evening, church services include the reading of the 12 Gospels.
Kids love shaping these
Holy Friday is a day or mourning. Traditionally, women and children take flowers to the church to decorate the symbolic bier of Christ, the Epitaphios. The Service of Lamentation mourns the death of Christ and the bier, lavishly adorned with flowers and bearing the image of Christ, is carried on the shoulders of the faithful in a procession through the community to the cemetery, and back. All the congregation follows, carrying candles and repeating the refrain of a beautiful Byzantine hymn. The candles on Holy Friday are yellow, made of natural beeswax.
On Holy Saturday, the Eternal Flame is brought to Greece by military jet from Jerusalem and is distributed to waiting priests who carry it to their local churches.
In the morning, preparations begin for next day’s Easter feast. Dishes that can be prepared in advance are made, and the traditional μαγειρίτσα (magiritsa) soup is prepared, which will be eaten after the midnight service, to break the Lenten fast.
At night everyone, including children, attends the midnight Service of the Resurrection, each holding a white candle. Traditionally, children are given the candle by their godparents, and many are lavishly decorated. Churches fill to overflowing and most people gather outside where the service is broadcast by loudspeaker. Anticipation mounts; shortly before midnight, all lights are extinguished and churches are lit only by the Eternal Flame on the altar. When midnight sounds, the Priest calls out “Christos Anesti” (Christ is risen), and passes the flame, the light of the Resurrection, to those nearest him. The flame is then passed from person to person, and soon the church and courtyard are filled with flickering candlelight. The night air is filled with the singing of the Byzantine Chant “Christos Anesti,” and kisses and wishes are exchanged. The traditional exchange is ‘Χριστός Ανεστη’ (Christos Anesti – Christ is risen) answered by ‘Αληθώς Ανέστη’ (Alithos Anesti – He is truly risen). As is the custom, as soon as “Christos Anesti” is called out, church bells ring joyously non-stop, ships in ports all over Greece sound their horns, floodlights are lit on large buildings, and great and small displays of fireworks and noisemakers are set off. Cars passing by on the road also honk loudly.
People then carry the Eternal Flame home. The sight of hundreds of candle flames moving from churches to homes on that night is beautiful, indeed.
Once home, the flame from the candle is used to make the sign of the cross on the top of the door frame in smoke. The mark is left there throughout the year, to symbolize that the light of the Resurrection has blessed the home. The candles are then put on the table for the midnight meal. Everyone gathers around the table to break the fast; the feast includes magiritsa soup, tsoureki, and the red eggs. But before the eggs are eaten, there’s a traditional game to be played: ‘τσούγκρισμα’ (tsougrisma) – holding your egg, you tap the end against the end of your opponent’s egg, trying to crack it. It’s a game enjoyed by children and adults alike. Eggs are often dyed in large quantities since the game continues on the next day with more friends and family. In large gatherings, someone can usually be found cheating with a wooden egg!
At dawn on Easter Sunday, spits are set to work, since all over the countryside, the menu of the day is whole spit-roasted lamb or kid, to represent the Lamb of God. Also on the spit is another delicacy, kokoretsi, seasoned lamb or goat organ meat, wrapped in caul fat and then in yards of cleaned intestines. This recipe originated from the need to use up all parts of the lamb that was slaughtered for Easter, and not let any go to waste (the rest being used in the magiritsa soup). Delicious to many people in the Balkans, but definitely an acquired taste…Some people prefer lamb or kid dishes grilled or baked in the oven, according to various local recipes. With these come all the trimmings, like roast potatoes and salads, with ouzo, beer and wine flowing freely. Preparations for the meal turn into festive celebrations even before the eating begins. These gatherings of family and friends often last all day and sometimes long into the night.
Many places in Greece have their own Easter traditions, such as the ‘rocket war’ of Chios, and special celebrations on Corfu, which are particularly impressive. Easter in Corfu is a huge festival, in which various components come together harmoniously: the Orthodox Christian faith, pagan traditions, the powerful presence of Saint Spiridon, the Roman Catholic community, the Venetian influence, genuine Corfiot humor, the music of the philharmonic bands and of course, the spring atmosphere.
And finally, although I doubt many of you will attempt it but – just for the fun of it – here’s a recipe on how to roast a whole lamb on the spit. Greek Easter is not ideal for vegans, nor for the faint-hearted!
Some days ago Pope Francis made a surprise visit to the island of Lesvos.
The Pope was met at Mytilini airport by Greek Prime Minister Alexis Tsipras, Patriarch Bartholomew, the spiritual head of the world’s Orthodox Christians, and Archbishop of Athens Ieronymos.
The three religious leaders visited the refugee camp at Moria which holds around 3.000 people.
In his speech at the camp, Patriarch Bartholomew told the residents: “The world has not forgotten you. The world will be judged by the way it has treated you.” Archbishop Ieronymos decried “the bankruptcy of humanity and solidarity” that Europe has shown migrants lately. Pope Francis called on the international community to respond to the crisis “in a way worthy of our common humanity.”
The three religious leaders then signed a declaration urging the international community to protect human lives and extend temporary asylum to those in need.
In a symbolic gesture, the Pope took 12 refugees back with him to the Vatican.
In 2013, the Pope had made a similar trip to the island of Lampedusa, to visit the refugees arriving there from Libya.
Visits such as these serve to highlight this humanitarian disaster, as do visits from celebrities. They have no political clout; the Vatican was at pains to point out the Pope’s visit was “humanitarian and religious in nature.”
One question remains – why do Muslim leaders not feel the need to make similar gestures? After all, most of these refugees are Muslims who could derive a lot of comfort from such a visit.
The response of ordinary Muslims to the refugee crisis has been great. Surrounding countries host the bulk of the Syrian refugee population. Many of the neighbouring countries – Lebanon, Jordan, Turkey, Iraq and Egypt – have shown remarkable spirit in taking, altogether, millions of refugees. Unfortunately, some of the most affluent Muslim countries have not followed suit.
I also find it strange that Muslim leaders are not more concerned in showing the world that Muslims are not necessarily terrorists, a self-evident fact which is getting buried by the fear generated by the proliferation of Islamist terrorist attacks. Perhaps there is something here I don’t know – I would welcome any feedback anyone might have on the subject.
Charity can be a double-edged sword, especially when practiced by people who are celebrities. It is true that their notoriety helps to highlight the issue they’re concerned with and bring it to the attention of the public, but how much difference does it make in actual fact? And how much of it is also used for their own advancement, the feeding of their own fame?
The latest example of this is Chinese artist Ai Weiwei’s espousal of the refugee crisis. He thought it a good idea (“art”?) to take a photo of himself lying on a pebbly beach, recreating the image of drowned infant Alan Kurdi that in 2015 became the defining symbol of the plight of Syria’s refugees.
This was seen as tasteless by many, as was his suggestion that high-profile celebrities don thermal blankets and take selfies at a gala event for the Cinema for Peace, for which he also wrapped the columns of Berlin’s Konzerthaus with 14,000 salvaged refugee life vests on Feb. 13.
At Idomeni camp on the Greek-Macedonian border, the dissident artist set up a piano in the middle of a muddy field and invited aspiring Syrian pianist Nour Al Khzam, from the city Deirez Zor, Syria, to play it.
The photographs of this event are a bit incongruous, since a light drizzle necessitated someone to hold a piece of plastic over girl and piano. The reviews I read were mixed – some characterized the event as ‘beautiful’ some as ‘ridiculous’.
It’s difficult to gauge the overall improvement in the victims’ situation resulting from such antics. If you’re stuck in a camp, cold and wet and uncertain about your future, are you overjoyed to see Angelina Jolie (another visiting celebrity), or would you rather have a hot meal?
That is why I admire people offering help on the ground, as it were. Small gestures sometimes, but which make a big difference. One would not even hear of them, were it not for some journalists seeking out these stories and writing about them.
Free Wi-Fi at Idomeni
One such article by journalist Lina Giannarou, written for the Kathimerini daily paper, tells of Ilias Papadopoulos, who decided to provide free Wi-Fi for the refugees trapped at Idomeni, on the Greek frontier. The border has been shut, these people are desperate for news, they need to communicate with their families; some have been separated from relatives on the way and want to look for them through social media.
Ilias Papadopoulos, a Greek electrical engineer who lives in Thessaloniki, a city about an hour’s drive south of Idomeni, built the necessary infrastructure inside an old trailer donated by the church in September 2015. He spent more than €5000 of his own money.
“I had the idea for free Wi-Fi at the beginning,” said Papadopoulos, who first went to the camp in August 2015 to see how he could help. “People had mobile phones, but no roaming, so they could not use them. They couldn’t communicate with their families.” He also found out hotels were asking people €5 to recharge their phones, so he showed up with large professional 80-slot plug boards, which he powered first with batteries and later using generators. In order to organize internet access, since phone signals in the mountainous area are weak, he borrowed two telephone lines from a local Evzone (army) unit and connected wirelessly to Idomeni.
Papadopoulos setting up. Photo from Mashable.com
Today his installation covers about 2/3 of the camp area. There’s still a problem, since the network’s capacity is for up to 900 simultaneous users, while thousands are trying to connect at any given moment. But, if you go near one of the eight antennas or try late at night, it’s easier. Using the network is free, but it is controlled – Ilias has blocked sites that are unsuitable for children or connected to criminal activities. He is now proposing to the authorities and the NGOs to use his network for information purposes, since he’s noticed a lot of the refugees don’t know what their options are and are still hoping the border will open soon.
When the refugees arrive on Lesvos in unstable, overcrowded boats, they are drenched with sea water. They are given new clothes and their perfectly good, but wet clothes are discarded and have mostly been trashed , adding to the environmental problems of landfill on Lesvos. Now Dirty Girls collect the clothes and have them laundered at a commercial laundry. They are sorted and distributed so they can be reused. Because of monetary donations, from people all over the world who want to help, we have been able to recycle many thousands of items of clothing.
Sorting socks! Photo from their Facebook page
Dirty Girls is the brainchild of Alison Terry-Evans, an Australian who has been going to Lesvos for years. Alison saw the littered beaches as an opportunity to recycle and simultaneously provide a service.
Local volunteers gather the dirty clothes from the sand and rocks, place them in bags, label them, and leave them by the side of the road. Alison’s team picks them up, gets them washed and dried, and then distributes the garments to the camps and outposts cropping up along the coast. Even heavy-duty blankets and shoes are sanitized so they can be put to good use.
Alison has always loved doing laundry. She says: “Sorting for me has always been a near meditation; so much satisfaction for little actual elbow grease. And finding a mate for the odd sock or shoe is super satisfying. So visiting the huge washing and drying establishment, Ermes, owned and run by Peter Mylonas, was thrilling.”
Peter saw Alison collecting clothing on the beach and heading home to wash and dry. He generously offered his assistance, and the rest is history.
Everyone on Lesvos loves Dirty Girls: the locals, the arrivals, the NGOs. Alison keeps the washing machines spinning thanks to private contributions. Want to help? Find Dirty Girls of Lesvos on Facebook.
Piles of laundry. Photo from their Facebook page
Recycling to make bags for refugees
One of the often overlooked side effects of the refugee crisis in Europe is the massive amount of waste piling up on the islands at the frontline of the crisis.
Thousands of news arrivals are pouring onto the islands daily, leaving behind them on the beaches piles of rubber dinghies and thousands of life jackets.
Volunteers on the island of Lesbos have developed a novel approach to dealing with some of the waste by upcycling the rubber from the boats and the straps from the life vests into waterproof bags.
Twenty-four-year-old Amsterdam native Floor Nagler had been volunteering on the island helping people disembark from boats when she noticed a need for bags, since many people had lost theirs along the route.
Nagler brought some of the material back to Amsterdam, where she is studying textiles, and worked with a fellow Dutch artist until they up with a solution. Then they took the concept back to Lesvos where they held workshops outside the Moria reception center near the capital city, Mytilini.
The bags are made from one folded piece of discarded material from the boat, held together with rivets and clipped shut with buckles from life vests. The bags costs around $3 to make and can be assembled by hand.
Floor gives a demonstration. Photo Amos Chapple/RadioFreeEurope
This is not the first project that Nagler and others have set up in upcycling materials on the island that were once destined for landfills.
Back in January, Nagler was making mattresses out of the life jackets that were left behind. Along with a group of volunteers, she founded the It Works initiative to bring empowering skills to the refugees who arrive on the island.
You can watch Floor making her bags on YouTube, below:
Emerging opera singer Marilena Chrisochoidi kindly took the time to answer questions about her life and career. She has lately appeared in the opera The Merry Widow in the role of Olga, and she stars in Andonis Karatzikis’s new opera, Eleni. She is also rehearsing for concerts featuring Vivaldi’s ‘Gloria’ and Charpentier’s ‘Te Deum’.
Tell us a little about yourself.
I was born in Athens but my family originates from Asia Minor. I’ve known since childhood that the only thing I wanted to do in my life was music and singing. I started playing the piano in primary school, then I went to a musical high school. I was taught the piano, the santur (a kind of zither) and the tambourás (a kind of traditional stringed instrument that developed into the bouzouki) both at school and at the Conservatory. My love for the piano and even more, the santur, contributed in winning prizes and scholarships. In high school I started taking voice lessons at the Conservatory, which led me to study opera. After school I exclusively studied monody (lessons in opera) and I watched every opera performance I could. My melodrama teacher at the Conservatory encouraged me to study theatre and so I graduated from the Karolos Koun Art Theatre Drama School, while at the same time getting my diploma in monody. Today I teach the zither and voice lessons in conservatories while taking my first steps as a soloist and an actor in opera and theatre.
What were the major difficulties you’ve faced in the last five years?
I’d say the main difficulties are of a financial nature, since in our discipline you know you have work for the current month but the following you’re unemployed and waiting for the next concert or performance. At the same time, taxation for freelancers is hard to bear.
Did anyone in particular inspire you or help you?
The work and the collaborations within it are in themselves a source of inspiration, while the rhythm of performances helps you escape from the difficulties of reality and the problems of daily life. It’s important that the arts continue to evolve in difficult times and that we promote culture and civilization.
What are your hopes/plans for the future?
My aim is to continue doing what I love and to keep improving, with the objective not only to be emotionally uplifted by my art but also to contribute to its safeguard and development.
What are your hopes for Greece? What changes do you hope to see happen?
The difficulties of the Greek situation are clear to me. However, I hope the Greek people will manage to resurrect themselves from the ashes as they so well know how, so that there will be space for a cultural renaissance beyond the improvement of daily life, and so that as a country we can prove worthy of our cultural inheritance. I also wish for the refugees who arrive on our shores a rapid end to the agonizing struggle for survival they experience daily. I hope that Greece will prove to have been an aid in their future lives.
Have you considered leaving? If so, where would you like to go, and why?
I have not decided to leave Greece permanently. However, international activities promote the career and development of an artist. Therefore, I too try to find collaborations in countries where opera is flourishing.
Are you actively doing anything to help with the situation? Is there something you would like to do?
All contemporary artists in Greece are contributing in concrete ways to the continuity of art, by investing emotionally and practically, given the low level and erratic frequency of compensation. I consider the organization of an increasing number of charitable performances and concerts all over the country of extreme importance, both for the support of the vulnerable and for the diffusion of art in general.
How do you see Greece in 5, 10 years?
The truth is that the future seems difficult. But it is up to us to reverse this trend with hard work, humanitarian and cultural education, solidarity and fundamental change. Our people must regain the sense of pride they had in the past and stop trying to be a pale copy of western civilization. Greece is a country full of treasures from coast to coast. I consider it imperative to exploit our material riches (products and foods with controlled designation of origin) as well as our cultural riches (theatre, education, archaeological heritage). Surely this would make for a strong start.
A poster from one of the shows Marilena performed in
How do you cope with obstacles and frustrations in your everyday life ?
I try not to let the difficulties I meet be an obstacle to my objectives. I prefer to focus on pleasant events from which I draw joy and strength to go on.
What are the positive sides of living in Greece? Have you had any good experiences lately?
Greeks continue to fight at all levels, showing exemplary patience and faith. Despite the difficulties due to the drop in living standards, there’s always a spark of optimism. That is the positive side of life in Greece. In And in my own discipline, we also remain active while keeping our standards high.
One of our main national celebrations in Greece is March 25, which commemorates the start of the 1821 Greek Revolution against the Ottoman Empire, a revolt whose motto was the cry “Freedom or death.”
Following the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Greece remained under Turkish occupation for four centuries. After a number of unsuccessful attempts at revolt, the War of Independence started in 1821. Despite many reversals, this would lead to the establishment of a Greek sovereign state with the London Protocol of 1830, signed by England, France and Russia – the allies who intervened to help win the war. The Greek struggle had elicited strong sympathy in Europe, and many leading intellectuals had promoted the Greek cause, including the English poet Lord Byron. At the naval Battle of Navarino, the combined British, French, and Russian forces destroyed the Ottoman-Egyptian fleet.
In 1838 King Otto, the first king of the new state, declared the beginning of the revolution was to be commemorated each year on March 25th with a national holiday; celebrations were held in the presence of the heroes of the revolution, who were eulogized by the crowds. Fires were lit on the Acropolis, a service was held in the church of Saint Irene and a flaming cross placed on mount Lycabettus.
The day was chosen to coincide with the Greek Orthodox Church’s celebration of the Annunciation to the Theotokos (Mother of God), when the Archangel Gabriel appeared to the Virgin Mary and told her that she would bear the son of God.
The blessing of the revolutionary flag – Theodoros Vryzakis(1819-1878) – Oil on canvas
On this day, towns and villages throughout Greece hold a school flag parade, during which schoolchildren march in traditional Greek costume and carry Greek flags. There is also an armed forces parade in Athens.
In folk tradition, the day also marks the beginning of spring and the return of the swallows. And of course, there is a special dish to go with all this: μπακαλιάρος σκορδαλιά (bakaliaros skordalia), cod fried in a beer batter and accompanied by a garlic sauce, made with potato, olive oil and sometimes walnuts. During Lent, fish is only allowed twice, on March 25th and on Palm Sunday. On the islands people cook fresh cod, but elsewhere it is usually the custom to use salt cod, which was introduced in Greece in the 15th century. You will find a recipe here, and I can vouch it is delicious.
To a lot of people Lent means giving up something they love, such as meat, or chocolate, or cigarettes. It’s all about self-denial. In the Greek Orthodox religion there are strict rules that govern fasting around religious holidays. For example, the week before Clean Monday and the beginning of Lent is called the Cheese-eater (Τυροφάγου – Tyrofagou): in order to start cleansing the body and preparing it for Lent, you give up meat but are still allowed dairy products. Then during the 40 days of Lent there are some days when olive oil is allowed and others not, culminating in Agia Evdomada (Αγία Εβδομάδα – Holy Week) which is the week before Easter and the strictest of all.
One of my favourite Lent dishes, artichokes with broad beans
People follow these rules more or less strictly, depending on their upbringing, personality and circumstances. Some believe in self-denial and make do with a couple of boiled potatoes or lentils boiled in water. But the human spirit tends to find ways to make the best of things; and so a whole cuisine has blossomed around the Lent fast. These foods are called Nistisima (νηστίσιμα) in Greek.
On Clean Monday only, bakers make lagana, a special unleavened flat bread, light and crusty, sprinkled with sesame seeds. The origins of the bread and its name are lost in the depths of time, but it goes great with the ubiquitous taramosalata , a dip made of salted and cured cod’s roe, whipped with breadcrumbs or boiled potato, olive oil and lemon juice.
Dolma – Delicious rice balls wrapped in vine leaves, and a bowl of taramosalata.
The menu also comprises seafood like cuttlefish, octopus, shrimp and mussels, which can be simply grilled and served with oil and lemon, or braised with tomatoes and mixed with rice or pasta. There are black-eyed beans, spicy giant beans baked with tomato, and dolma, rice wrapped in vine leaves; loads of vegetable dishes in various combinations, and lovely fresh salads.
As for dessert, again we have developed many recipes for cakes and cookies that conform to the rules (no dairy). And there is always χαλβάς (halvas) similar to the Arabic “halwa”, which is made of tahini, sesame paste, and sugar, to which are sometimes added pistachio nuts or cocoa. This you buy ready-made at the baker’s or supermarket and it is served sliced thinly, sometimes accompanied by slices of apple sprinkled with cinnamon. It is extremely sweet, and so nourishing it could sustain polar explorers on their journeys!
Peppers stuffed with vegetables and rice
The monastic life entails many days of fasting (the monks never eat meat), and so it is not surprising that monks are adept at this cuisine. Monks can make as brilliant cooks as anyone, and I’ve heard plenty of stories of memorable meals eaten by people visiting Mount Athos in particular. Mount Athos is an autonomous monastic state within the Hellenic Republic, where 20 Eastern Orthodox monasteries are home to over 2,000 monks from Greece and other countries.
They live an ascetic life, isolated from the world, but they get a lot of visitors: some are on a religious pilgrimage, others come because of the extraordinary beauty of the monasteries and the nature surrounding them. Many are interested in the rich collections of well-preserved artifacts, rare books, ancient documents, and artworks of immense historical value. Finally there are people who want to sample what they see as the simple life, even for a short while.
Unfortunately no women are allowed within the borders of Agion Oros (the Holy Mountain), as it is called. But I looked up their fascinating site and found a whole recipe book of Nistisima in both Greek and English, with accompanying photographs.
Chickpeas with aubergines
There is a huge selection and most recipes are quite simple to prepare, although the translation can be slightly excentric (but use your imagination, people!) I encourage everyone to browse, (click here), but I have copied a couple of the recipes as a sampler.
Fava
Ingredients:
500 gr. of split yellow peas
1/5 litre of water
1 onion
2 potatoes
2 peppers
salt
1 tea cup of olive oil
4-5 fresh chopped onions
1 bunch of chopped dill or oregano
some lemon juice
Put the split peas, the water, the chopped onion, the potatoes, the chopped peppers and half of the oil in a pressure cooker.
When they have softened, blend. Put in a serving plate and sprinkle with the fresh chopped onions and the dill or oregano. Pour over a little oil and lemon. Serve warm or cold, with bread.
Semolina Cake
Ingredients: ½ cup tahini – ¾ cup water – ¼ cup lemon juice – 2 cups sugar – 1 cup orange juice – 1 cup water – 1 teaspoon cinnamon – ½ teaspoon carnation (they mean powdered cloves!) – 3 ½ cups semolina – 1 cup blanched almonds.
For the syrup: 3 cups sugar – 2 ½ cups of water – 1 tablespoon lemon juice – 2 cinnamon sticks. Preparation: Beat tahini and ¾ cup water with the lemon juice until it turns white. Successively add sugar, orange juice, water, cinnamon, carnation (cloves) and mixing the semolina mixture. Pour into pan (40×35 cm) and sprinkle almonds over the surface. Bake at 180 degrees for 45 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the syrup by boiling all the ingredients together until thickened. Let cool and as soon as the semolina pie comes out of the oven, pour over immediately.
The monks even have an e-shop selling various products. Their recipes are full of good ideas for vegetarians, but also for everyone else. All the photographs are from their site.
The pall of smoke hanging over Greek towns due to the Tsiknopempti meat orgy has hardly dispersed and people are already thinking about the next feast, on Clean Monday (Καθαρά Δευτέρα – Kathara Deftera). It is a moveable feast, which this year falls on March 14. Ironically, it marks the beginning of the 40-day fast for Lent, Σαρακοστή (Sarakosti). However, the need to avoid a wide range of foods (meat, fish, all dairy products and eggs) has spurred gourmets and cooks over the centuries into developing delicious recipes called nistisima (fasting foods) of which more details in another post.
A feast of lagana bread, octopus, calamari, shrimp, mussels, beans, olives, tarama and wine
For the devout, Clean Monday—and thus Lent itself—begins on Sunday night, at a special service called Forgiveness Vespers, which culminates with the Ceremony of Mutual Forgiveness. Everyone present will bow down before one another and ask forgiveness, so they can begin Lent with a clean conscience and renewed Christian love. The entire first week of Great Lent is often referred to as “Clean Week”, and it is customary to go to confession during this week, and also to springclean the house – after all, Clean Monday also marks the beginning of spring.
Clean Monday is a public holiday in Greece and Cyprus, where it it is celebrated with outdoor excursions, and family gatherings whose main purpose is the consumption of elaborate dishes mainly based on seafood and vegetables.
However, the day is not only associated with eating, but also features many traditional celebrations held all over Greece. Municipalities organize concerts and other festivities with free food on offer. In the Borough of Athens, Clean Monday is traditionally celebrated on Philopappos, a hill situated southwest of the Acropolis. A beautiful 173-acre park, it is home to many indigenous birds and small animals, and open to all at all times of day or night.
Different municipalities have their own local customs, but there is one tradition that is followed all over the country: kite flying. Young people and adults flock to open areas, so as to fill the skies with their kites. Many traditional workshops have been involved in making kites for over 70 years, although in many instances the wooden kites have sadly been replaced by plastic ones. Every kiosk, supermarket and toy shop stocks kites for Clean Monday – there are even roadside stalls selling them.
In my childhood, making your own kite was considered a very manly pursuit in some households. Fathers and uncles would carefully choose and cut their own bamboo sticks, split them lengthwise with their penknives and fashion them into a hexagonal frame with string. Over this would go glacé paper in bright colours (often in the colours of the maker’s favourite team), and then ‘ears’ and a tail made out of strips of paper. The trick was for the kite to have good equilibrium so that it would fly straight and true. A few balls of sturdy string would be carefully wound in a figure eight over a stout stick and the kite would be ready to go.
Since Clean Monday is a communal affair, fierce competition ensues over the flying of the kites. Depending on the assembled company, I remember times when us kids would not be allowed near the kites. No, this was a man’s job, involving much drinking and banter, as well as practical jokes. There were – and still are – air battles where people try to get other kites entangled in their string in order to bring them down – some even resort to sending razor blades up the string to try and cut the competitors’ kites loose!
Despite yearly warnings by the Electricity Company, a number of kites always end up on the cables, where they remain for weeks, looking increasingly forlorn.
I bought the tulips at the supermarket and stuck them in a vase. They were so yellow and cheerful, I was inspired to make this quick sketch, which somewhat improved my mood after the perusal of the Sunday papers.
Front page article – Greece’s place in some world rankings. We suck almost everywhere. Competitivity? 81st place, after Uruguay (No. 1 is Switzerland). Government effectiveness? 66th, after the Seychelles. Functioning of institutions and development of the private sector? 74th after Panama. Dealing with corruption? 102nd after Serbia. Student performance? 43rd after Israel (China is top here.)
Even more pitiful is that our highest place (6th) is for child poverty percentages. So sad.
Meanwhile the ugly battle around the refugee crisis continues. With the closing of the borders, traffickers have been emboldened again – some even advertise on Facebook. There is also a thriving market in fake passports and identity papers. Alongside the stories of assistance from the Greek people (invitations to meals, taxi drivers who refuse to be paid, offers of hospitality in people’s homes) there are as many stories of exploitation (the government has had to impose a basic price for necessities such as bottled water and bread, with big fines for those who disobey) and instances of racism and anger against the refugees.
Criminality is bound to rise, and there are already instances of fights and robbery amongst the refugees themselves.
There was an article about the Turks who are accused of not doing enough; but they are swamped as well. There have been 150.000 births from Syrian parents in the last four years on Turkish soil. The government lacks the resources to provide for even the basic needs of these people, who are obliged to fend for themselves as best they can.
Both Greece and Turkey keep insisting that it’s an impossible task to close their borders. Turkey’s border with Syria and Iraq is more than 1.500 km long, and Greece’s borders are either islands with miles of coastline or very mountainous and difficult to guard.
As long as the message that is filtering down is ‘Keep coming, you will find a way,’ the flow will not stop. And, looking at photograph of whole streets of totally bombed out apartment buildings in Syria, I fail to see how it possibly can.
Countries, starting with Turkey, are negotiating systems of checks and balances and asking for returns for every measure they take; however, the only possible solution is if everyone works towards a common goal. But even that has yet to be defined.
Other news included the Brexit, the American election campaign, the corruption scandal at FIFA, the terrible crisis in dry cargo shipping, the government’s negotiations with the ‘Troika’ regarding our debt, and the further increase in taxes.
I’ve a good mind to confine myself to fiction in the future…
The word tsikna (τσίκνα) means ‘pungent smoke from grilled meats’ – it’s what your clothes smell like when you return from a taverna or barbecue. Today is Tsiknopempti (Τσικνοπέμπτη) – literally the ‘Thursday of grilled meat smoke’, a Greek tradition beloved by all carnivores, since it entails an orgy of grilled meats.
We are now in the middle of the three weeks of Apokries (Απόκριες – Carnival) preceding Lent and a fast of 40 days before Easter. Little kids in fancy dress can be seen walking in the streets, on their way to various parties. Tonight people will either descend upon tavernas – better reserve, since even your local is bound to be overbooked – or congregate in homes around someone (usually a man) priding himself on his barbecuing skills.
Every full-blooded Greek considers the Tsiknopempti feast his unalienable right, not to be spoilt by any vegetarian, cardiologist or fish-eater.
The menu on offer usually comprises the following:
*Burgers, kebabs, sausages, lamb and pork cutlets, and steaks. Maybe chicken pieces.
The meat has to be top class and seasoned with salt, pepper and oregano. It will be accompanied by: Cut lemons to be squeezed over according to taste. Tzatziki – a yogurt and garlic sauce. Mustard, ketchup and mayo.
*Fries. They have to be home cut and cooked in olive oil.
*Salads. A xoriatiki (Greek salad) with tomato, cucumber, plenty of onions, and tons of feta cheese. A green salad for freshness. A shredded cabbage and carrot salad dressed with olive oil and lemon.
*Bread – pita and slices of country loaf, brushed with olive oil, grilled and sprinkled with oregano.
*Plenty to drink. Beer, of course; wine, red and white (some like retsina, a white whine flavored with pine resin – a strong, old-fashioned, acquired taste); ouzo, raki and other spirits.
*A selection of desserts, the sweeter the better. Baklava full of nuts and drenched in honey syrup, something chocolate.
All of this engenders a lot of discussion and theory:
-I see you didn’t go to the butcher I told you about.
-Do we have enough coal?
-Have you lit the coal? We don’t want to eat at midnight.
-If the meat is good enough, it doesn’t need marinating.
-No, no, pancetta should be marinated in beer.
-Don’t be stingy with the salt and pepper.
-Or with the garlic in the tzatziki.
-The sausages have to be eaten first.
-Someone has to be in charge of the fries.
-Someone has to keep the cook supplied with drink.
-Someone has to praise the cook.
Suggestion: Better lay in a supply of antacids for after dinner and/or plan a week’s detox.
But, meanwhile, Kali Orexi! (Καλή Όρεξη – Bon Appetit)
The images are from the oneman.gr blog which has a very amusing article on Tsiknopempti, for those who speak Greek.
However, the day is not only associated with eating, but also features many traditional celebrations held all over Greece. Municipalities organize concerts and other festivities with free food on offer. In the Borough of Athens, Clean Monday is traditionally celebrated on Philopappos, a hill situated southwest of the Acropolis. A beautiful 173-acre park, it is home to many indigenous birds and small animals, and open to all at all times of day or night.
In my childhood, making your own kite was considered a very manly pursuit in some households. Fathers and uncles would carefully choose and cut their own bamboo sticks, split them lengthwise with their penknives and fashion them into a hexagonal frame with string. Over this would go glacé paper in bright colours (often in the colours of the maker’s favourite team), and then ‘ears’ and a tail made out of strips of paper. The trick was for the kite to have good equilibrium so that it would fly straight and true. A few balls of sturdy string would be carefully wound in a figure eight over a stout stick and the kite would be ready to go.
Letters from Athens 