M. L. Kappa

Road trip to Metéora

Taking advantage of the brilliant weather, we headed out for an overnight excursion. Our destination: Metéora, the largest complex of Orthodox monasteries in Greece, outside of Mount Athos.
The monasteries are built atop almost inaccessible sandstone peaks, at the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly near the Pineios River and Pindos Mountain, in central Greece.

Monks settled on these ‘columns of the sky‘ from the 11th century onwards. Twenty-four monasteries were built, despite incredible difficulties, at the time of the great revival of the eremitic ideal in the 15th century. Today there are six left.

To break up the four-hour journey, we stopped for a snack in the town of Domokos. The crisis is apparent here as well, with a lot of empty shops in the central street. An abrasive woman in a red pickup honked as we tried to park the car. The taverna that had been recommended to us was shut. We asked the woman, who was by now walking down the street, where we could get something to eat, and in two minutes she had managed to sell us a bag of beans – her own production – which she offered to bring to the kebab shop, apparently our best bet.
As we walked down the street, ultra-modern shops alternated with more decrepit ones like the one in the picture above, which took us straight back to the 60s. Pyjama bottoms, socks, plastic baskets and kitchen paper – and those rolls of PVC tablecloth in hideous prints that most Greeks used in their kitchen! Some still do, apparently.

Walking into the kebab shop, we looked at each other in dismay. It was tiny, grotty, and the clients consisted of two crusty old men and an elderly lady, sitting at small metal tables. A half-eaten, uninspiring gyros was roasting on a spit. Amazingly, the young man behind the counter made us delicious grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches that were just perfect. In the time it took to fire up the grill, we had become firm friends with everyone. The old guys chattered away through their dentures, the lady spoke Greek with a very strong local accent but perfect English to someone on the phone, and the abrasive woman came in for a bite with us (she had the gyros), bringing the aforementioned bag of dried white beans. We answered the usual ‘Where are you from?’ questions, discussed the monasteries’ hospitality policy, and found out the best place to buy local cheese.

On to Metéora, which was simply magical. There is no other word to describe it.
Metéora in Greek means ‘suspended in the air.’ The sheer majesty of the rocks upon which the monasteries are perched like eagle nests is breathtaking. The monasteries themselves are large, complex, beautiful structures that look as if they’ve emerged from the rock.

We started with the biggest one, Great Metéoro. Nowadays there is a road leading up to the opposite mountain slope. We scrambled down one flight of steps, crossed a bridge spanning the chasm, passed through a tunnel hewn in stone and, finally, faced a climb up another large number of steps – 330 to be precise – to emerge at last upon a stunning view.
The monastery church is a perfect specimen of Byzantine architecture; the 16th-century frescoes covering the walls mark a key stage in the development of post-Byzantine painting. The large courtyard is planted with cypress trees.

Before leaving we inspected the crude net and primitive pulley system by which monks were lowered, at great danger, to the ground, in the days before the road was built.

After climbing back down all those steps it was time to repair to our hotel, the Dellas Boutique Hotel, a stone building just outside Kalambaka, which is the nearest town. The welcome was warm, and the lounge contained a bar, comfortable chairs and even board games. The smiling girl in charge gave us maps of the area and recommended we visit an exquisite Byzantine church in the town. Then she sent us off to dinner at a taverna down the road serving local specialties.
Our rooms had a great view on the rocks, which were floodlit at night, the fissures and crannies casting mysterious shadows. At breakfast there were home-made jams and cake, local yogurt and honey scented with pine, oregano and thyme. When I asked where I could buy some to take home, I was directed to the local butcher’s! As well as a large display of appetizing meats, he sold all sorts of other products: fresh eggs, herbs, the said honey, even slabs of salted cod. I got my honey, plus some local cheeses; after which he gave me a present of his homemade country sausages, which he even vacuum-packed for me!

The 11th-century Byzantine Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary – in Kalambaka itself – which was our first stop, exceeded expectations. With beautiful and intricate rose-colored brickwork on the outside, its inside walls were covered with frescoes of the Saints and the pillars were of solid marble, since the church was built on top of a temple to Apollo. Part of the floor has been dug up to expose the ancient mosaics.
Next we made our way to the monastery of Saint Nicholas Anapafsas. We parked the car on the edge of a wood, and there was the monastery, about two miles up in the sky above us! It looked unreachable. As we climbed rough-hewn steps through the woods, the undergrowth was strewn with pink cyclamen and the air was crystal clear. In no time we were at the foot of the walls, and then up the 270 steps to the top. One sole monk lives in this monastery, but it was bustling with life. A lady sweeping the floor told us she worked there ‘for the views’, a bunch of workmen were putting new tiles on the roof, a Japanese tourist was availing himself of the bread and loukoumi (Turkish delights) set out for visitors. The monk said to us, ‘Up here you are in heaven.’

The next two monasteries we visited were nunneries, and the female touch was evident. They both had lovingly-tended gardens, full of roses and lavender. The larger of the two, Aghios Stephanos, is inhabited by 31 nuns.

The monasteries have small museums containing frescoes, precious relics and illuminated manuscripts. Every window or terrace has a different view, of the rocks, of the other monasteries seen from below or from above, of the Thessaly plain and the glint of the river.
The people who first climbed the rocks and built upon them, trying to find protection from the raids of various conquerors, established a tradition of Orthodoxy which has continued uninterrupted for 600 years. Today the Metéora is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Before heading for home, we made a detour to catch a glimpse of the man-made Plastiras Lake, named after the Greek prime minister who had the vision of building a dam across the Tavropos River in order to irrigate the plain of Thessaly. It was a glimpse only, since the lake is large and surrounded by an area of exceptional natural beauty. It merits a trip in itself, in order to explore the villages surrounding it and enjoy the various activities on offer. We only had time to stop for a delicious lunch at a roadside taverna, where once again the owners were friendly and welcoming, as well as being great cooks! After lunch and a chat, we walked through oak woods dotted with mushrooms to the shores of the lake, whose waters were calm and clear as well as – we were told – teeming with fish.

Some photos are mine , others by Anna Koenig. I will leave you to guess which! To go on the Dellas Hotel site, click on the name. Great value for money.

New feature: The monthly Q&A

I sometimes feel too many of my posts are depressing, due to the fact the situation in Greece is not particularly cheerful at the moment. I try not to be all gloom and doom, however, because there are many good things happening.
The future still looks dark. Nevertheless, a country’s future is in its people, and especially its young people. Inspired by comments from readers, and hoping to reveal a more positive outlook, I’m planning a new feature for this blog – showcasing individuals who are making the best of things.

Each month there will be a Q&A with someone who is making a life of it, here in Greece. I will try to have a mix of people from all walks of life, different backgrounds, different occupations, mostly the young – and sometimes the not-so-young.
It will be a little bit of research, an attempt to find out what motivates these individuals: what are their hopes, their problems, how they see Greece in the years to come. Did they ever think about leaving, and, if they did, what made them stay? If they’re still thinking about it, what would make them stay?
Watch this space.

Athenians love the theater

Long queues formed again in central Athens on a recent October afternoon. But for once they weren’t leading up to an ATM machine, or to a national insurance or tax office. They led to the ticket office of the Greek Art Theater, where something very appealing was on offer: they were selling 2 tickets per person for every performance of the winter season, for the astounding price of €3 each. All the performances had to be booked in advance, with a choice of convenient dates.

3,500 people lined up around the block, even crossing over to the next street, to avail themselves of this. Men and women, young and old, all waited patiently, sometimes for hours, holding the program they’d printed out and discussing available dates. Many had a book in hand to help pass the time. The theater had never anticipated such a response – there was an overflow, and they had to apologize for not accommodating everyone.

The Art Theater is not the only one trying to adapt to the crisis. Many other venues are offering reduced tickets of €10 or less – usually they go for around €20 – as well as special offers for the unemployed.

The crisis has certainly affected the theater, but it has not cowed it. On the contrary, there’s a reckless feeling in the air, a notion that ‘In a crisis one must advance, not recede,’ and ‘We’re not going to make any money anyway, we might as well have some fun.’ The public is sometimes invited to enter venues that until recently functioned as night dives or warehouses, where they might have to sit in velvet chairs or perhaps on wooden benches.

I went to a play downtown, in a basement under a bar, where we sat on plastic chairs and the props consisted of an old sofa, a lamp and a bit of carpet. The audience was warmly enthusiastic about the comedy on offer, which was admittedly very funny, with great acting. Before and after, everyone went for a drink. My sister even attended a show where the performers ‘acted’ the props, turning themselves into trees and furniture!

In contrast to that, there are lush productions, such as those in the superb Badminton Theater, where a children’s play about Theseus involved fantastic sets. Theater district neighborhoods are resounding with the music and laughter of rehearsals, as all the most popular musicals, including Mamma Mia, are being put on with casts of talented young Greek actors.

In 2014 there were more than 400 shows on. I haven’t seen this winter’s program yet, but at the moment there are 91 performances on, spread around 58 theaters. Usually there’s something for every taste: comedy, farce, drama, Ancient Greek tragedies, stand-up, Shakespeare, musicals, performances for children, puppet theater. Also political satire, plays in verse, plays involving dance, and monologues.

Cyclamen, tomatoes and olives

Autumn is a good time to head out for a country walk. It’s not too hot and it’s rained already, so the hillsides are dotted with wild cyclamen. I pick bunches of them and put them in small pots, which are then spread around the house. My dog has learned to be patient while I am foraging. Today she investigated various interesting items, the most fascinating of which was a very dead, flattened frog which I had to prise from her with great difficulty, my orders of ‘Drop it!’ having no effect whatsoever.

Below please admire the results of my Saturday morning outing.

This is also the time to enjoy the last sun-ripened tomatoes. I do make a small batch of sauce for the winter, the emphasis being on small, since I can’t be bothered to sterilize jars and just put them in plastic boxes in the freezer.

Meanwhile, the olives are ripening on the trees. Already we have put up a few green ones in brine. We call them tsakistes (smashed) since you have to crack them with a stone. Soon it will be time to pick them. The groves will be full of people gathering and the roads will be full of tractors taking them to the press.

And for a more melancholic autumnal mood, I am re-posting Josephine‘s stunning photograph. She calls it ‘September’, but in Greece September is still summer to all intents and purposes.

Not everyone wants to cheat on their taxes

Irini* is an esthetician. She lost her job at an upmarket salon when it closed down abruptly. The owner, a shady entrepreneur with fingers in a lot of pies, had declared bankruptcy and was subsequently arrested for tax evasion. That was three years ago, and she is still owed a few months salary. Irini found another job immediately, but only part-time. She supplements her meager salary by offering facials at home. She gets paid in cash. She would dearly love to start a little business with a friend, but has yet to find a way to make it affordable.

Roula* is a masseuse, earning good money making house calls (as much as €1,000/week, on good weeks.) She has tried many times to start a proper business, because she wants to be able to declare a steady income so that she can ask for a bank loan in order to buy an apartment. This is unaffordable with the present laws, since she would need to invest a large sum to set up her own space. A sum she does not have. She is a single mother with a son to support, so she has been forced to take a part-time job where she is paid a lot less per hour, just so that she can qualify for some social security.

Myrna* opened a tiny cake shop in an affluent Athens suburb, investing a lot of her own money. Three years later, and although she has acquired a loyal clientèle and as much work as she can manage, if not more, she is still not making a profit. And yet she has to pay a lot of taxes. She might have to close down.

If people like these were given incentives in starting and running small businesses, they could each pay a few thousand in taxes yearly. One million people times one thousand in tax a year? Do the math. The state would get a cool billion, where now it gets nothing. In France, for example, if you have a ‘micro-enterprise’ declaring up to €23,000, you pay around €5,000 in tax. Again, do the math.
There are A LOT of such people in Greece. Proper laws would help with tax evasion, and with unemployment. Instead, thousands of small companies have been forced out of business, and the black economy is thriving. The capital controls, which – despite promises – are still enforced, are not helping the situation.

And another thing, it’s not very easy to make a budget when the laws change every two minutes, and some taxes are applied retroactively.

In another surreal twist, Manolis*, who is a farrier, was preparing his tax declaration form, when he was astonished to discover that the profession of farrier had been struck off the list! Unable to decide how to fill in the form, he went to the tax office where a harassed employee had no idea what he was talking about. He asked to see the person in charge, and was directed to an office where a man lounged behind a desk, drinking coffee.
‘Well, just put the profession closest to yours,’ the man told him, totally uninterested.
‘I shoe horses! So, what shall I put? Cobbler? Ironmonger?’ Manolis was both sarcastic and indignant.
The man looked at him.
‘Did we summon you here?’ he asked.
‘No. I came because I need to know what to do with my tax form.’
‘Oh, for god’s sake, man, what’s your problem? Just put what you like, don’t waste my time.’

Anestis* is a physiotherapist. A lot of his patients are covered by social security, which means they don’t pay him directly – he subsequently gets paid by the state. However, a law came out reducing the price of each treatment retroactively from €15 to €12 (effective since 2012.) In May, he was paid for 2014 – but, of €45,000 he was owed, he only got €15,000. He still has not received the rest, and has no idea when and if he will get any of it. He seems resigned to the fact that it will certainly not be the whole amount. Meanwhile, he’s had to pay €30,000 in taxes – the tax people having refused to offset his credit against his debt.

Now for the flip side of the coin. Something Greeks seem unable to understand is that ‘the State’ is not an abstract entity that gets its money from a higher deity. Cheating the government is cheating your family and neighbors, those who do pay. But people still admire a friend or colleague who’s found a clever way of getting around some taxes, refusing to understand that it’s their own taxes that will pay for the shortfall.

Nobody likes paying taxes. But paying taxes is more painful if you feel the government is robbing you, or if you feel you’re not getting anything in return (roads, schools, etc.). A change in mentality is desperately needed – on both sides.

* All names have been changed

Digging to the Past

Greece is a small country that has seen many brilliant civilizations. Layer upon layer, everywhere you dig, you come upon remnants of one or more of them. Each square foot of earth can hide a treasure.

Despite the lack of funds and personnel, archaeological digs are going on all over Greece. Archaeologists, architects, restorers, and marble artisans are aided by student volunteers from all over the world. Armed with spatulas, brushes, scrapers, sieves, and even dental equipment for delicate jobs, but mostly armed with patience and perseverance, they have toiled all summer under the blazing sun to bring to light artifacts and constructions from Classical Antiquity through the Byzantine years and up to modern times.

Now, more than ever, they have to rely on personal connections as well as local artisans and businesses to be able to overcome financial obstacles and continue with their projects.

The most important of these excavations is the ancient Amphipolis tomb, whose discovery in 2014 in Casta Hill, northern Greece, set the archaeological world on fire. It is still not known who is buried in the grave that dates to the era of Alexander the Great, around 300 B.C. Five human skeletons were found in the grave, statues of two headless and wingless sphinxes, caryatids and an impressive mosaic of Persephone being carried to Hades.

But there are other interesting sites around Greece:

The ruins of a Mycenean palace have been discovered on a 140-hectare site near Sparta. The impressive buildings, built around a large central courtyard and decorated with wall paintings, belong to the second complex to have been erected on the site, since the first appears to have been destroyed by fire around the 15 th or 14th century BC. A large number of clay tablets, bearing writing of the Linear B form, have been preserved – thanks to being baked by another, more recent, fire. They constitute the palace archives and are a precious source of information about the Mycenean religion and language, as well as the social, economic and administrative structures of the area. A multitude of objects and artifacts have also been found, such as cooking utensils, bronze swords, and seals.
In Crete, on Psiloritis mountain, excavations are gradually revealing the luxury and grandeur of the Minoan palace of Zominthos.

In the Cyclades, on the tiny uninhabited island of Despotiko, west of Antiparos, there existed the largest sacred sanctuary after Delos. Many fragments of marble statues and pots have recently come to light.

In Pella, an impressive marble statue was discovered of a bearded man, clad in an animal skin and boots.

On the island of Astypalaia, 5.000-year-old rock drawings have been discovered. They depict boats with oars and fish designs on their prows. They are proof that the Cycladic civilization was very widespread.

On the headland of Molyvoti, an ancient walled city is being excavated, possibly Strymi, which was mentioned by Herodotus. A lot of ceramic pots, urns, jewels, amulets and coins have been found.

And there are also underwater digs. In the sea near the island of Kythira, archeologists are investigating the wreck of the Mentor, Lord Elgin’s ship, which sank after crashing into rocks while carrying 16 boxes of antiquities.

DESMOS: Matching donations to needs

What do you do with a pair of old skis, an outgrown child’s bike, or a CD player you’ve not used since you started downloading movies from the Internet? How do you get a pile of blankets to those who need them most? I give a lot of stuff to the bazaars that various organizations set up around Christmas. But there are things they have no use for, things nobody takes. Throw them out? In steps DESMOS.

Since the state is, to all intents and purposes, bankrupt – as well as being unforgivably disorganized – a lot of the social work in Greece has been taken up by charities. Of course, these are suffering as well, since individuals have much less disposable income, and companies who traditionally have acted as sponsors are facing a lot of problems as well.
However, people still find it in themselves to help, and NGOs are taking up most of the slack. There are a lot of worthy ones, doing great work with children and other vulnerable groups. One of my favorites is DESMOS, which was set up by five young women who had a brilliant idea: to match donations to needs. A kind of sophisticated recycling, as it were.

I had a talk with Alexia Katsaounis, one of the founding members and the acting president.

Alexia, can you tell me a little about how you got the initial idea for Desmos and how you set it up?

In January 2012 the Greek financial crisis was unfolding and I was part of a group of five young women who wanted to do something to help. We realized something quite simple: on the one hand, many of our fellow Greeks wished to contribute and support those more vulnerable, while, on the other hand, social welfare providers were facing decreasing resources and desperately needed all the help they could get in order to deal with continuously increasing demands for aid.
This realization became our driving concept: Desmos’ mission and basic operation was formulated to bridge this gap. That is, to best utilize surplus goods and services from companies and individuals in order to help cover documented needs of social welfare providers and non-profit organizations working to address the unfolding social and humanitarian crisis in Greece.

What does Desmos do, in practice?

Since January 2012, working out of two offices in Athens and Thessaloniki, Desmos has been able to provide for more than 300,000 short- and long-term beneficiaries, by distributing goods and services exceeding €1,850,000 in – conservatively estimated – total value to 460 social welfare organizations in Greece, through the donations of 205 companies and hundreds of individuals.

Throughout the four years of our operations, because of Desmos’ in-depth understanding of both emergency and long-term needs of NGOs, we have begun to also operate in a consulting capacity for potential donors, either as part of Corporate Social Responsibility programs, or with independent projects tailored to donors’ special interests. This has resulted in large-scale national programs.

Can you describe a few of these?

One is Desmos Gives Warmth, a nationwide campaign, currently in its 4th year, to provide heating fuel to non-profit organizations and schools. It has been able to distribute 171,566 liters of petrol and 9.9 tons of pellets to 123 social welfare providers, giving warmth to 7,174 people in need.
Another is Desmos for Schools – Agoni Grammi, which has provided equipment and material supplies to 35 schools in 11 remote islands of the Aegean Sea, thus benefitting approximately 1,000 students.
Yet another is our most recent collaboration with Thom Feeney on the Greek CrowdFund. This crowdfund campaign, which was launched with the goal to help address dangerously rising youth unemployment in Greece, motivated over 13,000 donors from around the world, and has resulted in the Desmos for Youth program which will support the creation of around 20 employment positions for youths aged 18-28 years, for one year, at NGOs that need valuable human resources.

Have you had a positive response from the public?

Yes, the public’s response has been extremely touching. Regarding the Desmos Gives Warmth program, the gratitude we receive from parents, teachers and students – especially from schools in remote, northern and mountainous areas that have extremely low temperatures and high humidity during the winter – is overwhelmingly moving. We have received drawings from the students and thank you notes from the teachers that are hanging on our office walls, making us very proud :-).

Especially moving are the simple, spontaneous donations of everyday people. These provide the encouragement for us to continue our work, compensating for a lot of frustration in the face of the enormous problems that Greek society is experiencing. Most recently, Desmos collaborated with another youth employment initiative to organize a collection drive of packaged food and personal hygiene products for the city homeless. 20 young volunteers staffed Desmos stands in three major supermarkets in Athens for 5 days, encouraging customers to make donations in kind, however small, with their shopping. One visiting customer, after listening to the volunteers’ explanation of the purpose of the drive, went into the supermarket and came back some time later with a full cart. He approached the Desmos stand, took out a single deodorant and left the entire cart, full of pasta, soap and other goods, to the volunteers, saying “Keep up the good work!”

What are strange or unusual things people have given you?

We pride ourselves in being able to handle a wide range of donations, because there usually are corresponding needs that we couldn’t have imagined unless we asked. For example, we received a call from a donor saying that she wanted to donate a professional piano synthesizer. We were baffled, because so far we had dealt with basic goods, such as food and essentials, and it was a challenge to respond to such an item. However, once we began asking NGOs whether they could use a synthesizer, we realized that social welfare providers that care for special needs children with autism, mental retardation and other conditions needed musical instruments because music therapy and musical stimulation were essential to the learning process of the children. It was an instant and wonderful match that led us to post such needs on Facebook and equip a number of NGOs with musical instruments that would be otherwise collecting dust in some storage!

Recently we received an email from someone who wished to donate an old Mercedes in mint condition. Once again we didn’t know where to start looking, since NGOs usually ask for vans or SUVs – however, a couple of organizations responded that they needed a transportation vehicle and were open to the car and entailing costs. The donation didn’t go through in the end, because the owner couldn’t bear to part with the car, but he assured us that once he makes the decision, we’ll be the first people he calls.

Is matching donations to needs a complicated task?

Yes, it requires a lot of work and communication between various parties, so Desmos is constantly researching ways of making the process easier and more efficient. To this end, we have created Desmos Direct, a valuable digital tool that innovates the giving process by “automatically matching” goods and services offered by individuals and companies with the needs of social welfare organizations. Donors and organizations post their donations and needs online and when a match occurs, Desmos Direct notifies both parties and directs them to complete the transaction. This way, donors can browse through organizations’ needs, but also organizations can browse through donor’s items on offer to find the odd thing they may desperately need. Any donation, however strange or unusual in principle, may very well have its corresponding need on www.desmosdirect.org!

And finally, are you doing anything in particular to help the refugees?

The current refugee situation in Greece and Europe at large troubles us greatly and we continuously receive donor interest in helping out the areas that are hit the most by incoming refugees, as well as requests for aid from NGOs specializing in refugee crisis relief that are active on the sea and mainland borders, particularly the islands of the Eastern Aegean.

So far, thanks to corporate and individual financial donations, we have made significant in-kind donations in food and basic goods supplies to the islands of Tilos and Lesbos.

We are in the process of establishing a more consistent line of assistance and supplies to the island of Samos, which is developing into a significant “crisis” island, particularly in anticipation of colder weather in the next months. We are also in constant communication with most NGOs that work for the refugee crisis, such as the International Rescue Committee, which we are helping by supplying goods to them in Mytilene.

At the moment, we are also expecting donations from the international community, and are making efforts to get through the customs bureaucracy in order to access these goods. Specifically, we have 18,500 cans of baby formula from New Zealand that are waiting for customs clearance, and we just received a large quantity of sleeping bags, blankets, raincoats, and personal hygiene products from the Greek Community of Geneva, Switzerland.

While thanking Alexia for taking the time to explain things, I would like to add a word of praise for the work done by the staff and volunteers at DESMOS. They are always cheerful, helpful and, above all, efficient. They even told me where I could give boxes of pills (in capsules) that had been opened but were not yet expired, that I found when clearing out my medicine cabinet!

For updates on refugee aid, as well as to learn more about new projects and ideas, you can follow Desmos on Facebook and Twitter and register for their monthly newsletter at www.desmos.org.

And for donations, use www.desmosdirect.org or call (30)216-9001320 Monday-Friday 10:00-18:00.

The refugee crisis revisited

My heart sank when I read in the paper that Burkina Faso is on the brink of civil war. More people wanting to come over here, was my first thought.
The refugee crisis has gone on for so long, and is so out of control, that serious political and economic dimensions have been added to the humanitarian aspect.

On the one hand, it has become big business. Here is some number crunching:
It costs a minimum of €1200 per person for the passage from Bodrum to Kos. For 50 people in each boat this equals a whopping €60.000! And that’s just for a short crossing – I have no idea what traffickers from Libya make, when they pile 700-800 people into a rust bucket and cast it off without enough fuel to reach Italy…
Once you get to Greece, apparently kickbacks are extracted everywhere: €200 to get to the head of the queue, €200 to get on the bus, and so on. A lot of these ‘facilitators’ are themselves Syrian.
It’s €4000 from Morocco across the straights of Gibraltar to Tarifa in Spain. By jet ski! Although it is very dangerous since it is beyond the safe range, the trip must be undertaken under cover of darkness and the water is freezing.
For wealthier Syrians, safer, more comfortable trips can be arranged via Dubai to Turkey, then from Izmir to Rhodes on larger boats. A few more thousand euros then have to be paid out in taxis, hotels and fake documents. I read an interview with a Syrian doctor who had turned ‘travel agent’ after failing to cross over himself – he was saying people trust him because he’s a doctor and prided himself on not having a single person die on his boats.

On the other hand, attitudes are hardening:
Donald Tusk, the EU president, has claimed that migrants are being sent to Europe as a campaign of “hybrid warfare” to force concessions to its neighbors. An influx of hundreds of thousands of refugees becomes a “weapon” and a “political bargaining chip” used by the EU’s neighbors who want to put pressure on Europe to obtain extra aid or other benefits.
Mr Tusk warned that the Schengen system of passport-free travel would collapse and Europe would become a “breeding ground of fear” unless Europe’s external borders are secure. There is mounting frustration in Brussels at President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s refusal to seal Turkey’s coasts and border with Greece.

At the same time, a controversial plan to relocate 160,000 people from Greece and Italy to other parts of the EU by quota was announced.
The countries that refused this project, one of which is Romania, claimed that the immigrants will alter the fabric of their society. That’s as it may be, but people from these countries have themselves emigrated in the not so distant past. Greece accepted more than 20,000 Romanian refugees after the fall of communism. Did they ask themselves if they would alter the fabric of our society?

Unfortunately, the West does bear a part of responsibility for this situation, by meddling in these people’s countries. As usual, economic interests are mostly to blame. For one, the arms industry needs wars in order to make a profit – then there is oil, and minerals, and construction… Now we have to deal with the fall-out. Theoretically, it would make a lot more sense to spend the money making their countries safe for them, than dealing with them in Europe. It is probably too late now. Boris Johnson, the Mayor of London, has suggested there should be a safe haven organized for them in the Middle East. I don’t know how feasible that would be, but I do think the Arab world should be doing more to help.

Meanwhile, in Athens, the situation remains dire.

On September 30th, a friend of mine went to Victoria Square, in downtown Athens, to evaluate the migrant situation first-hand. This is what she wrote:

‘Flanked by three friends, all laden with bags bulging with juice boxes, cans of long-life milk, packets of biscuits and cereal bars, markers, children’s books and clothes, I exited my car on the busiest side of the square. We were immediately accosted by tens of people, including many children.
I wasn’t psychologically prepared to be faced with such palpable desperation. The situation was worse than I’d imagined. And a thousand times more unsettling, too.
People grabbed at the bags, tore them straight out of our hands, served themselves to as many goods as they could carry. We made sure the children received priority but, soon, we were mobbed by grown men, too.
It was actually pretty terrifying. If you don’t see it first hand, it’s hard to fathom how bad it is.
Turns out the people here were not political refugees from Syria. These were all illegal immigrants from Afghanistan. I was shocked to find that they were not even all that grateful for the things we’d brought.
I certainly don’t regret going, but, having said that, I value my safety and I’m not about to go back any time soon. I would not recommend that unprepared civilians intervene, but I did approach a harried-looking volunteer from Holland who shed some light as to what you can do if you really must help in person.

1- Bring warm clothing, blankets and socks. With winter coming, this is what they will need the most.
2- Bring food, always a necessity.
3- Circulate with a zippered bag rather than paper or plastic, both of which tear easily, and hand the goods out directly to the people you choose. Keep moving. Stay too long in one place and you will be mobbed. (Easier said than done.)
4- Prioritize women and children. The men come third.
5- Make sure you are not carrying valuables. Gypsies who roam amongst the Afghans are quick to pounce on unsuspecting strangers.

The situation is really too bad to be true and pressing questions arise: where will all these people live should they choose—or be forced—to stay here? After all, they can’t camp out forever.’

Other friends who ventured to Victoria square told me approximately the same things, adding, however, that the baker where they went to buy food for the refugees gave them ten loaves which he also cut into pieces for them.The same thing happened to us, when we went to buy medicines for them at a pharmacy. The pharmacist added a large number of freebies to our bag. Greeks, whatever their other faults, remain human and sensitive to the pain of their fellow men.

Roger Cohen, writing in the New York Times, says:

Greece has made me think about everything statistics don’t tell you. No European country has been as battered in recent years. No European country has responded with as much consistent humanity to the refugee crisis.

For the whole article, click here.

A Greek church near Ground Zero

Inspired by visiting the churches in Patmos while sailing in the Greek islands, Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava did not hesitate to submit his design for the building of the St. Nicholas Orthodox Church at the World Trade Center.

He visited many churches, and notably Aghia Sophia and the Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora (both in Istanbul) and made thousands of sketches before perfecting his proposal. This was selected from over a dozen others to replace a 19th-century building that was destroyed by falling debris and building parts from World Trade Center Tower Two during the 9/11 attacks in 2001. The Greek Orthodox Archdiocese had to negotiate hard with the Port Authority to have the church rebuilt, and is funding part of the project.

The domed structure will be partly clad in a translucent skin, made of thin stone and laminated glass, which will allow it to glow softly from the inside at night. A small white flame beneath the skyscrapers.

The project is being presented in an exhibition at the Benaki Museum. At the preview, looking at the maquettes and the original sketches that made up the exhibition, one could sense the church would provide an ideal counterpoint to the plaza’s twin reflecting pools.

Although St. Nicholas will function as a Greek Orthodox Church, it will also be open to anyone as a shrine and spiritual beacon overlooking the Ground Zero memorial Plaza. It is designed to be a place where people of every belief will be inspired to go in and light a memorial candle – even people who do not practice any religion.

The September 11 terrorist attack in the name of Islam gave rise to a discussion about the role of religion as a weapon of fanaticism. The fact that a Catholic architect designed a contemporary Byzantine church inspired by structures that were used also as Muslim mosques can only add a note of optimism and hope.

In my mind, there is also a historical connection of this idea with Constantine the Great, a Roman Emperor who later converted to Christianity and built Constantinople. In 313 A.D. he signed the Edict of Milan, concerning religious tolerance, which stopped the persecution of Christians. A small excerpt: ‘And thus by this wholesome counsel and most upright provision we thought to arrange that no one whatsoever should be denied the opportunity to give his heart to the observance of the Christian religion, of that religion which he should think best for himself, so that the Supreme Deity, to whose worship we freely yield our hearts may show in all things His usual favor and benevolence.’

Calatrava’s work is known for courting controversy. As well as supremely talented, he is perceived as vainglorious, designing meta-modern Parthenons that will secure his place in the Pantheon of architecture. His projects are often plagued by delays and spiraling costs. This particular design has been criticized by many as being ‘cold’, ‘like a pumpkin sitting in a box’, ‘more like a museum than a church’ and, worse, ‘like a mausoleum’. It is certainly not as welcoming inside as a traditional Byzantine church with its gold and red icons. In the context of the specific site, however, I personally found it awe-inspiring and very apt.

I’d be curious to know what everyone else thinks.

Below is a short video. The quality is mediocre, since I recorded it on my phone. But it shows a fascinating insight into Calatrava’s thought process as his design evolved.

Duration of the exhibition:
24/09/2015 – 25/10/2015

Venue:
Athens Benaki Museum
Main Building

Monday morning laugh

‘Can I help?‘

By Ilias Makris, who always makes us smile. Taken from the daily newspaper Kathimerini.

http://www.kathimerini.gr/epikairothta