February Q&A – the doctors

‘Our mission is the therapeutic treatment of pain and the restoration of the functionality and normal life for our patients.’ 

The ATHENA MAVROMATI PAIN CLINIC can be found on a leafy street in the Athenian suburb of Chalandri. The owners, Athena Mavromati and Ioannis Tornazakis, combine Athena’s medical expertise as an anesthesiologist and pain management specialist with Ioannis’s engineering and administrative skills to deliver top quality medical interventional services and treatments. Apart from being business partners, they are married and live in Athens, Greece, with their dog Ektoras.

 

Tell us a little about yourself.

Athena: I was born on the island of Thassos where I spent my preschool years. We then moved to the city of Kavala but always came back for the summer vacations. I received my Μedical Degree from the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki and specialised in Anesthesiology in Athens. I worked in Intensive Care Units for both adults and children in main hospitals of Athens. I then further specialized in the treatment of pain in Queens Medical Centre, Nottingham and Bradford Royal Infirmary at the UK. Upon my return to Greece, I worked at the Hygeia Hospital’s Pain Management Unit as a consultant, and at the University of Athens as an associate scientist. In 2001, I founded my own clinic and I’ve worked exclusively there ever since. I practice regenerative medicine and minimally invasive techniques such as prolotherapy, prp and stem cells. I have been continuing my scientific education in the US on the emerging field of regenerative medicine.

Ioannis: I was born and raised in Athens, Greece. I received my BSc in Aviation
Science and Wings from the Hellenic Air Force (HAF) Academy and got my MSc in
Electronic Warfare Systems Engineering from NPS in Monterey, California. As a fast
jet pilot I have logged more than 1,000 flight hours in jets including the Mirage 2000.
In the following years I served as an Electronic Warfare Systems Engineer at HAF
headquarters and was the Head of Delegation for Greece in key NATO groups
tasked with aircraft self-protection. In 2012, I decided to quit my career in the Air Force and join Athena in her practice. Since then, I have been designing and supporting our technical infrastructure, and constantly improving our medical imaging capabilities. I am also tasked with the administration of the practice and our day to day business needs.

 

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What were the major difficulties you’ve faced in the last five years?

Athina: Well, they fall into two very different categories. On the one hand, there is our decision to move on from traditional pain management techniques to advanced regenerative medicine interventions under ultrasound guidance. This is a significant leap on an international scale that requires extensive medical training, and acquisition of new medical technologies and equipment; it also presents logistical challenges. On the other hand, as a medical practice here in Greece, we face a hostile environment to do business in, because of the destabilised and unpredictable tax, banking and healthcare policies.
It is a huge challenge to bring new and innovative technologies into a troubled market.
Ioannis: I’ve also had to face the difficulty of a major career change from defence to healthcare. After after 20 years in the Air Force and having adopted the lifestyle and habits of a well structured, disciplined and isolated work environment, I had to switch gears and adapt to a more open and flexible setting. This did not happen without trouble both for me and all others around me!
However, things eventually settled down thanks to Athena’s patience and determination.
At least healthcare and military operations have one thing in common: a mission-oriented approach.

 

Did anyone in particular inspire you or help you?

Ioannis: Our constant inspiration comes from our patients. We appreciate their trust and willingness to pay out of their pockets for our medical services. Greeks really value education and health and are still willing to invest in them despite their current economic status.
Athena: Other sources of inspiration include traveling abroad for education and
business. Following up on the latest medical advances fascinates me and is a powerful and constant source of inspiration.

 

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What are your hopes/plans for the future?

Athina: Our plan is to keep going while being be able to incorporate
the latest advances in regenerative medicine into our everyday practice. In
order to achieve that, we are constantly investing in technology, training and
resources, and adapting our procedures as needed.
Ioannis: In addition to our mainstream business we have started to develop medical mobile applications, which will complement our daily practice and reflect our knowledge in the field. We have been researching and working on this for a while and hope to see it eventually coming to life in early spring this year.

 

What are your hopes for Greece? What changes do you hope to see happen?

We hope that our country will eventually achieve economic stability and growth, and maintain its geopolitical status and advantage in our region. More important, we hope that we Greeks will be able to restore our country’s name and place in Europe and the global community. Though we have been greatly underestimated and blamed for the last years, we believe that in the end our spirit will prevail and we will reclaim our lost pride.

 

Have you considered leaving? If so, where would you like to go, and why?

Yes, despite our growth we have considered leaving. In a scenario like that we would like to go to an English-speaking country outside Europe. This is because Europe is in the grips of a decline and has lost its competitive advantage in almost all areas in comparison to America and the East. Plus, it is always interesting to work and live in new places.

 

If you have already decided to leave, what would make you stay?

We are very well established in our business so it would be a pity to leave the country. Moreover, we have reached a balance between work and quality of life. At the end of the day, we love our country and would not be among the first to flee from it.

 

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Are you actively doing anything to help with the situation? Is there something you would like to do?

We are actively helping with the situation by doing our part as a medical practice. We are bringing new technologies into the country and sustaining them. Despite being surrounded by a collapsing healthcare system, we offer advanced health services that make a difference. We save our patients having to face a situation where there is no place to go when their health is at stake. We strongly believe that if all of us do our part, we will, as a whole, harvest the benefits. It might seem a little hard at the beginning, but frankly, there is no other way.

 

How do you see Greece in 5, 10 years?

We cannot say how we see Greece for the next quarter let alone the next 5 to 10
year period. Our country’s economic and geopolitical instability, (not to mention warfare and associated problems in the wider region) does not allow for such predictions.
Instead, we find it more productive to focus on contingency planning and what to do if things get worse or take a new course. As for our expectations, we believe the pessimistic messages coming from the political and academic milieu are countered by the optimistim and hopes of active citizens.

 

How do you cope with obstacles and frustrations in your everyday life ?

We cope with obstacles by solving the problems one at a time and having a
plan for resources and supplies. We brainstorm a lot and have long conversations in order to analyse each issue that arises.
Frustrations are hard to manage because they are sudden and overwhelming in
nature. What we have found works for us is having a flexible plan, doing things in
small increments that eventually add up, and always having alternate paths and
options.

 

What are the positive sides of living in Greece? Have you had any good
experiences lately?

In our free time we like to hike with our dog in the nearby mountains and go sailing at every opportunity. Greece’s nature is one of a kind, from its limitless coastlines and countless islands to its mountains. We have the best scenery on this planet, with the sun a permanent resident, signs of the ancient Greeks everywhere, ruins of temples and historical sites all around. Add to that the openness of the people and the whole set up has no equal.
Ask sailors around the world from New Zealand to the Baltic which is the hardest
sea to master, and they will all come up with one answer: the Aegean! So, both of us being sailors worth our salt, our best experiences have to do with sailing around
in our yacht. Recently we sailed for a couple of hours from our harbour to the maintenance centre. There was a light breeze, no waves, and brilliant light
with scattered clouds. All that in the middle of winter!

Yoleni’s – a voyage of dicovery of Greek foods

Organic extra-virgin olive oil, wild herbs, cheeses from around Greece, Cretan honey, truffle salt. Artisanal breadsticks and ‘spoon’ sweets. Selected wines and pasta. All those things that are sometimes hard to find, even if you live in Greece, are now only a few clicks away.

In one of those coincidences that seem to occur occasionally, right after writing my post on Greek cuisine I chanced upon an article in the Sunday papers. It described an e-commerce site, Yoleni’s, which sells a wide range of top-grade products from all over Greece. Checking them out, I found myself on a virtual foodie journey: you navigate the site via the different regions of Greece, sourcing products lovingly described. They even have a large number of delicious recipes to temp you into experimenting. The site is in three languages – Greek, English and German – and they deliver to anywhere in the world.

I got in touch with Yannis Georgiadis, one of the co-founders of the enterprise.

banner1Tell me, Yannis, how did Yoleni’s come into being?

Yoleni’s was started four and half years ago by five friends. The logic behind it was to combine traditional products with e-commerce. At the time this did not exist in Greece. Our ambition was to provide our customers with the best Greek products available on the market; to give shopping for food a new twist. Before going online, we spent a very long time working on our content. We imagined our customers travelling through Greece, finding specialities from different regions, accessing traditional recipes.

Can you give me some numbers?

We opened online in 2014, and in the last two years we have built up our range to include 2.000 products, sourced from 180 producers based throughout Greece. In 2015 we notched up 11.000 clients and sent out 6.000 corporate gifts around the world. We deliver to 47 countries, and that is excluding the US, which has its own site, yolenis.us, as well as its own warehouse and distribution network.

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So you are getting quite well known.

What has helped is winning some awards, the most important of which was the Hellenic Entrepreneurship Award in 2015. This provides winning companies with interest-free funding, mentoring and a range of business support services. With their help, our aim is to open our first retail store in Athens in 2016, followed by stores in the USA. Then we hope to expand further through a franchise system.
Also in America we are the exclusive providers of all the products for The Cooking Odyssey, a TV show aiming to bring its audience the traditions, culture and recipes of the Mediterranean.

How do you source the products you sell?

In the beginning we travelled all over Greece, meeting the producers and striving to persuade them we were capable of selling their produce online. This was a totally new concept for them and they were dubious at the start. Then they saw how much we invested in each product, talking about it, photographing it, connecting it to specific recipes. Now it is they who call us, asking if we can sell their products.

_D8E6463 copyHow do you choose which products to take on?

First let me say that we buy the products outright. Then we have three main criteria: The products must be Greek. They have to be free of conservatives. They must have the necessary certification for export.

Have you been affected by the crisis?

PayPal going down because of the Capital Controls did not help. Of course there has been a positive side to the issue, since Greeks were forced to use plastic money, which they mostly avoided before. What worries us now is the possibility of the closing of the borders, if we are thrown out of Schengen. It is difficult to imagine how that would affect exports.

 

 

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What are the main obstacles you faced?

In Greece, people are not used to shopping online, especially not for food. We think opening our flagship store in Athens will help, since customers will be able to taste foods before buying. At the moment we see that they look at things online again and again before deciding. Of course, once they’ve tried something they come back for more, so we must be doing something right!
People abroad don’t know about many of the products we sell, so they have to be educated – and that takes time.

Tell me a little about running the company

We started with 5 people and we are now 18. In that time there have been a lot of changes  because of the crisis, but not only. We invested a lot, both in time and money, on the content of our company, and we are now starting to reap the benefits of that. The idea to connect traditional organic products with an e-grocery did not exist before in Greece.
We run the company in a very relaxed, informal, family-style manner, focusing on teamwork.

 

The team at work

What are your bestsellers?

Definitely honey, followed by refrigerated goods like cheeses and cold cuts, then corporate gifts; and extra-virgin olive oil, which we mostly sell abroad. Greeks usually have  their own source of olive oil, from relatives in the countryside!

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After I said goodbye to Yannis, I went on the site and ordered some cheeses from Andros, truffle salt and some lovely buffalo sausages. There is a huge selection and each product is accompanied by short texts about its history, about the history of its place of origin, and about the producer. Each product is also linked to a couple of recipes to give ideas to cooks! My mouth was watering as I browsed.

If you have a couple of minutes to spare, click here. You will come upon a short video explaining Yoleni’s concept.

The definition of Dystopia

Greece is being threatened with the closure of its borders, effectively trapping hundreds of thousands of refugees who have made it across the sea from Turkey.  We are being accused that, for refugees who see Greece as a transit point on their journey north,  ‘Athens is happy to oblige, waving them through, providing transport, but never hosting the caravan of humanity wending its way into central Europe.’

We are also blamed for ‘not ‘protecting our borders’, thus endangering the social fabric of other European countries.

Greeks are furious about this ‘blame game’. We have been offered money in return for keeping the refugees, an offer that is deeply insulting. How about our own social fabric? From as far back as the 80s, Greece has already hosted a vast amount of refugees: Asians and Africans, Palestinians and Kurds, and, after the dissolution of the communist bloc, people from Eastern Europe, especially Albanians, Bulgarians and Rumanians. A large percentage of these are now very well assimilated, speaking the language perfectly and blending in with their neighbours—despite the usual bureaucratic shambles regarding their documents. In a population of around 11 million, around one million are immigrants.

 

This society, already strained to breaking point by six years of internationally mandated austerity, is now asked to accept responsibility for an unprecedented situation for which it is certainly not to blame. It is a fact that the Greek government has not fulfilled all its duties in this matter yet. But which government has? We have seen the rapid deterioration of the situation in Germany – Mrs. Merkel’s neck is on the line for her open-door policy. We read daily about the situation on the Hungarian border, or in the Jungle in Calais. And now the tinder-box is to be kept solely within our borders, courtesy of our European partners and allies.

 

It is certain Europe cannot accept everyone, and the terrorist dimension has added complications to the issue. A lot of the able-bodied young men wanting to take advantage of social benefits available elsewhere should be returned home. People have worked for those benefits for generations, and it is normal they should want to protect their way of life.  But everyone has to work together towards a solution, and the Arab countries have to do their bit as well. Finally, Turkey has been promised three billion euro to deal with the problem – yet that is where most of the trafficking takes place.
Greece cannot and must not be turned into a dystopia, a giant campsite, or, as some have said, into Europe’s prison.
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Frontex has declared it is impossible to patrol a coastline which includes 117 inhabited islands (there are 6000 islands in total, including some that are just large rocks). So how are we supposed to do it? Surely the refugees should be stopped in Turkey, before they drown as they are doing on a daily basis, now the seas have turned cold and rough—but apparently the traffickers are offering cheap ‘off season’ rates. Every single day, we wake up to the news: 12 drowned, 7 drowned and so on, all on our shores. Some can be saved – what are we supposed to do, throw them back into the sea?

I will finish with an account, freely translated, written by islander Nina Giorgiadou:

‘Today was another ‘normal’ day. For us normality has gone beyond seeing your children unemployed and depressed, not being able to pay a new lot of taxes, or having your property confiscated.
Our normality has been enriched by repeated doses of mass death, packaged in black bags that are piled, when full, one upon the other.
Here is a resume of today’s normality.

We were woken in the dead of night by one of those phone calls that make your heart race. We ran to the port, bearing clothes, blankets, hot tea and a tendency to rapid depression.
The first body arrived before dawn. A small bundle, probably a child. Then came 26 survivors. The 12 were more dead than alive, deeply hypothermic; they were piled rapidly into ambulances.
The rest who were more ‘alive’ we undressed and rubbed down, muttering endless and meaningless times ‘Ok, my friend, tamam,’ all mixed up with a lot of tears and snot since there’s no time to wipe your nose when hurrying to dress the frozen.
Afterwards, our normality included 13 more bodies, big and small, and an attempt not to vomit. Where to put so many dead?
To continue within the framework of normality, we received ten boxes of body bags. To do what with? Let’s put them aside for times of need. The industry operating around death is impressive.


The next phase includes scattered images within the shelter.
Aliki is holding in her arms the 15-year-old girl who has lost her parents and both siblings. Aliki is the smaller of the two. You  have to wonder—who is consoling whom?
Vasilia has gathered the children in a corner of the high-ceilinged space we gracefully call ‘the playground’. They are the offspring of those
who arrived the day before yesterday. Today not a single child was saved. Vasilia is telling stories in a low voice. In Greek. They listen as if they understand. She has her way. Stories always have a way.
Outside, the coastguard boat is passing again. How many? Around twenty? How many were you, Sam, on the rust bucket?
Sixty or eighty. We’re missing twenty lives. They will never be found. They will never even be listed as missing.
Tomorrow is the day for identifying the dead. Our normality will be transported to the morgue. It will be a little more tense, I suppose. But it will still be our normality. Distorted, but normal.
Oh yes! The clock shows it is already tomorrow.
Another normal day will soon dawn.

 

(Borrowed from the blog of katerinafullermoon)

Nobel Prize nomination for Greek islanders?

An online petition has been made by the grassroots campaign group, Avaaz, on behalf of the residents of the Greek islands who have been rescuing, feeding and sheltering hundreds of thousands of desperate migrants arriving at their shores.

This is the text of the petition: “Ordinary residents of Greek islands and other volunteers have been on the front lines of Europe’s refugee crisis for months, opening up their hearts and homes to save hundreds of thousands fleeing war and terror. For their compassion and courage, for treating those in danger with humanity, and for setting an example for the rest of the world to follow, we citizens around the world, nominate these brave women and men for a Nobel Peace Prize.”

Nearly 1 million migrants entered Europe in “irregular arrivals” last year, most fleeing conflict, persecution and poverty in the Middle East and Africa, according to the International Organization for Migration. These tidal waves of humanity have made the Mediterranean “the deadliest route for migrants on our planet,” the IOM’s Director General William Lacy Swing has said, with nearly 3,700 people drowning in its waters last year. And more are continuing to drown on a daily basis, especially in the last weeks, when the weather has turned to winter at last, and the sea is freezing cold.

According to an article in the Guardian (Sunday 24 January, 2016), “of the 900,000 refugees who entered Europe last year most were received – scared, soaked and travelling in rickety boats – by those who live on the Greek islands in the Aegean Sea.

The islanders, including fishermen who gave up their work to rescue people from the sea, are in line to be honoured with one of the world’s most esteemed awards. Eminent academics from the universities of Oxford, Princeton, Harvard, Cornell and Copenhagen are drafting a submission in favour of awarding the prize to the people of Lesbos, Kos, Chíos, Samos, Rhodes and Leros.”

The article goes on to say that “it must be noted that a people of a country already dealing with its own economic crisis responded to the unfolding tragedy of the refugee crisis with “empathy and self-sacrifice”, opening their homes to the dispossessed, risking their lives to save others and taking care of the sick and injured.”

At the time of posting, the petition had amassed 313,975 signatures

 

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Quick news update

POLITICS

Kyriakos Mitsotakis won the New Democracy leadership election in a fairly tight vote on Sunday. This was seen by most as an upset (Mitsotakis was lagging in the first round) or a reversal.
I see it more as a correction. It has remained a source of astonishment for me how the old guard politicians, having failed dismally at everything they had promised, have the gall to continue promising things they almost certainly have no intention of delivering. At last, the voters saw reason. Whatever one may think of Mitsotakis, let’s give him a chance!

Reactions in the foreign press have also been positive, pointing out that now Tsipras will no longer be ‘the only game in town’. Continue reading “Quick news update”

The Sunday Papers

Today is the second Sunday of the new year. Time for stocktaking – what are the prospects before us?

I took a look at the main Sunday papers. Although of different political persuasions, the themes they deal with are the same.

THE ECONOMY

The problematic state pension scheme, the constantly increasing taxes, and the difficult measures that have to be taken in order to satisfy our lenders. Depressing, to say the least!

THE NEW DEMOCRACY ELECTIONS

The second round of voting to choose a leader for the New Democracy party (the main opposition party) takes place today. It is between Mr. Meimarakis, a member of the old guard, and Mr. Mitsotakis, much younger and more modern, but a member of an old political – and often controversial – family. Is there, in actual fact and despite what they’re proclaiming, much to choose between the two? Voters who turned out in decent numbers for the first round are, so far today, exhibiting election exhaustion.

 

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THE REFUGEE ISSUE

European countries are complaining about the number of refugees allowed into Europe but, let’s not forget, most of those are still in Greece (to say nothing of the vast numbers stuck in Turkey). It is clear the situation is totally out of control. Today the articles were about increasing instances of fights amongst the refugees themselves, especially between groups with different religions; abuse of women and children; cases of women selling themselves in order to pay the traffickers; extortion; black markeering in cellphones, fake documents and other goods.

In a horrifying statistic given out by the organization “Missing Children Europe“, 50% of unaccompanied children arriving at one of the refugee centers disappear within 48 hours never to be found again.

Very few of the refugees are actually in the centers – the rest are wandering around, penniless, hungry, hounded by the police.

Meanwhile, the trafficking business is thriving, starting from Syria itself, where allegedly there are special ‘schools’ coaching people how to reach Europe.

In Bulgaria, the police has issued a warning to hunters to be careful what they shoot at in the woods, in case the prey is not a wild boar but some refugee hiding from the authorities.

However, in a different article, there are glowing reports from various workers from the NGOs working on the island of Lesbos. This is close to the Turkish coast and has received huge numbers of refugees. The NGOs are doing a great job, but they’re also full of praise for the islanders, who have been welcoming the refugees to the best of their ability. People collect food, prepare formula for babies, grandmothers are even knitting little sweaters. Many volunteers from all over the world have also arrived, some giving up their vacation to help, others declaring their willingness to stay ‘until the war ends in Syria.’

Another, more curious, article deals with the refugees who have arrived with their pets. As a general rule, this has been well received by the Greeks, who think it a very human touch. In some other countries, however, (apparently Slovenia is one,) the refugees’ pets have become an object of political pressure, as well as a business: border controls confiscate cats and dogs, even those with passports, microchips and the correct vaccinations, and put them in quarantine,  demanding for their keep and release exorbitant amounts (up to €2000). Otherwise the animals are euthanized…

FOOD

The Sunday supplements have the usual restaurant reviews: a new Italian in Kolonaki, an Asian street food bar, a tacos place. And two great salad recipes, to detox after the festive overeating. My favorite? A rocket salad with roasted beetroot, walnuts and orange.

The political situation remains unstable, and thing are not looking good yet. But the start of a new year always feels like a new start, and there is a tiny whiff of optimism in the air.

In other, unrelated, news , as Anita Kunz put it: ‘As if everything else this past year weren’t enough , now Kim Jong-un shows up again.’
She’s doing a cover of him as a baby playing with toy missiles, for the New Yorker.

Please feel free to join in with other pleasant surprises awaiting us in 2016!

A walk with the Ancients: Herodotus

I always like to have a couple of books on the go – something light to read at bedtime, like a crime novel or a book of short stories, and something more challenging for when I’m not falling asleep after one page. Not that there are rules – it all depends what mood I’m in, how busy I am, etc. Sometimes I almost long to get the flue so I have an excuse to stay in bed all day with a book!

One hefty tome I’m picking my way through is the Herodotus Histories. Written around 450 B.C., in the Ionic dialect, it is a record of the ancient traditions, politics, geography and clash of cultures of the then ‘known world’ – Western Asia, Northern Africa and Greece. Its main theme is the rise of the Persian Empire and the causes of the Greco-Persian wars.
Herodotus portrays the conflict as one between the forces of slavery (the Persians, whom he calls ‘barbarians’) on the one hand, and freedom (the Athenians and the confederacy of Greek city-states which united against the invaders) on the other. His aim is to preserve the memory of this clash of two worlds and also of the ‘works of man’ that he so admires. In doing so, he is sometimes a strict historian, sometimes almost a poet.
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Herodotus, a contemporary of Socrates, was born in Halicarnassus, Caria (modern-day Bodrum, Turkey) and lived in the fifth century BC. Widely referred to, notably by Cicero, as “The Father of History“, he was the first to treat historical subjects as a method of investigation, by collecting his materials systematically and critically.
He travelled widely in the known world, looked at everything with insatiable curiosity, asked questions and wrote down the answers. We must remember this was in a time when an embassy would set out from Athens and, even traveling with all the facilities available to official missions, arrive in Sousa in Persia after three months! Herodotus went as far as Assyria and Babylon, Persia and Egypt. He sailed up the Nile. He went north to Kolchis, describing the snows of the Ukraine. He travelled the whole of Greece, and visited Sicily. His work can be described as a sort of historical and geographical encyclopaedia.

This treasure-trove of anecdotes sometimes seems to waver between history and myth; and yet, Herodotus of Halicarnassus both coined the term, ‘historia,’ and invented the genre. History can therefore be anything that he, the very first historian, pleases. And ‘historia’ – Ιστορία –  to Herodotus, meant ‘enquiry’ or ‘investigation.’ Also, many of the stories which were considered fantastic have, with later discoveries, been proven to be true.

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Histories was, in the Alexandrine period, divided into the nine books that appear in modern editions, named after the nine Muses. I’m currently in the middle of book III, Thalia. I’m reading it in Modern Greek – the excellent Angelos Vlahos translation.
For English speakers, there are many translations, such as the Robin Waterfield one below.

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Histories is a highly entertaining read, with amazing stories of emperors and kings, e.g., the tale of Gyges, a mere bodyguard who, after being forced by King Candaules to peek at his beautiful wife as she is undressing, murders the king, marries his wife and becomes tyrant of Lydia; or wealthy Croesus, King of Lydia, who keeps pestering the Delphic oracle, finally learning that if he attacks Persia, a Great Empire will fall – a riddle that Croesus does not understand until he has been ensconced on his own funeral pyre by Cyrus, King of Persia.
Herodotus also tells of the poet Arion, saved from drowning by a dolphin who carried him safely ashore; he relates that the Egyptians hunted crocodiles, respected their elders, and slept in huts that were on stilts to escape being bitten by mosquitoes which hovered near the ground.

Reading Herodotus is like taking a trip back in time, and discovering an ancient world in the company of an intelligent, observant and amusing guide. Highly recommended.

The Epiphany

On January 6, the last day of the festive season, Greeks celebrate the Epiphany, the baptism of Christ by Saint John the Baptist in the Jordan River. We call it Θεοφάνια (Theophania) or Φώτα (Fota) – the Feast of Lights.

Celebrations start the day before, on the 12th day of Christmas. It is a day of fasting – the devout don’t eat meat, fish or dairy products, and not even olive oil is allowed. In Crete they make a special dish called Παπούδια (Papoudia) or Φωτοκόλυβα (Fotokolyva): wheat is boiled with different dried pulses such as lentils, chickpeas and beans, which they eat with salt, bread and maybe an onion and a few olives. They also used to  feed this to their chickens and other livestock.

After the morning church service, priests go around the houses in their parish in order to bless them by sprinkling holy water around the rooms. They are also asked to go and bless shops and offices and, in the countryside, stables and livestock. This is known as Μικρός Αγιασμός  (mikros agiasmos) or small blessing and, in the old days, it was thought to chase away the Kallikanzaroi, the malevolent gnomes who come out of their holes to plague households over the Christmas period. Now they flee before the priest, and disappear for the rest of the year. Until next Christmas!
Today also those who have burned the Χριστόξυλο (Christ-wood)  during the twelve days of Christmas will gather the ashes and spread them around the house, stables and fields to exorcise evil spirits.

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The next morning, January 6, after a special service, a procession is formed through towns, starting at the church and leading to the sea, a river, or even a reservoir.
The priests lead, followed by the the local authorities, the villagers or townspeople, schoolchildren and, in large towns, the army. Sometimes there is a band. The size and brilliance of this procession is in accordance with the size of the town, the most impressive ceremonies taking place in ports. In the port of Pireas, the procession is attended by members of the government.
When the procession reaches the water, the priests recite a blessing, and white doves are released. Then a large cross is thrown in the sea, to symbolize the blessing of the waters. A band of local men,  the Βουτιχτάδες  (voutihtades – divers) plunge into the icy waters to retrieve it. It is considered both a great honour and a sign of good luck to be the one who brings back the cross to the priest.
The church bells ring, the ships’ sirens boom. The faithful drink a few sips of holy water, and take some home to bless their houses and livestock.

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This ceremony symbolizes cleansing, purifying and, in a dimension that has its roots in ancient, pre-Christian times, riddance from demons.

During the Epiphany, other customs are revived that go back to Dionysian festivals or to the Turkish occupation.
Groups of people, wearing costumes and masks and holding wooden swords and bells, wander the streets or go from house to house singing and demanding money in return for chasing away evil spirits. The costumes and routines vary from place to place, as does the name of this custom. Μωμόγεροι (Momogeroi), Ραγκουτσάρια (ragoutsaria) , Ρουγκατσάρια (rougatsaria) are all different manifestations of this tradition.
In the town of Galatitsa in Halkidiki, they even construct a camel, activated by six men, to commemorate the 19th century story of the abduction of a beautiful young girl by the son of the local Turkish official. Her fiancé and his friends thought up the camel costume with which they gained entry into the Turkish household, hiding the girl inside the camel to sneak her out and back home where she married her intended before the Turks could get her back!

In some places, there is a custom called ‘the washing of the icons’: people take the icons they have in their houses and wash them in the nearest river.

Later, everyone repairs home for another festive meal, usually of pork, which can be baked with celery, or with quinces. On the island of Skyros, housewives make traditional pies filled with spiced pumpkin, called μαρμαρίτες (marmarites). They bake them on tiles inside the fireplace, taking care they are not stolen by the Kallikanzaroi, who have the ability to make their arms as long as they like, and can thus reach down the chimney to steal the pies!